Nach Rome! und dem Vaterland 2011

October 9th, 2011
We decided to go see the Pope. I also wanted to spend some time bicycling in Germany, but that idea fizzled out. I still needed to spend some time working on my bicycle, and touching base with old friends, so a chaotic adventure was started.
22SEPT2011 – Departure

The flight out to Düsseldorf began at 7 am from SeaTac, putting us through Newark, NJ. This wasn’t a bad option, though the Newark airport required one to depart one secure terminal and then re-check in to another terminal. It wasn’t easy, and the airport had minimal food options. We’ll try to go through Chicago or Frankfurt from now on.

23SEPT – Arrival in Düsseldorf

Customs was easy but in our tiredness we walked right out of the terminal looking for our baggage, only to realize that we might have taken the wrong turn, and could not get back into the baggage area. Fortunately, we were able to force our way back through a “Kein Eintritt” door (no entrance) and immediately located our bags. The smallest cash that I had on hand was 20 euro, and the machine would not take that large of bill, and would not take a credit card. This led to great consternation as to how to pay for the train ride. Eventually solved, we ended up in Krefeld Hbf, only to catch the wrong bus to Onkel Herbert. Arriving in Düsseldorf at 6 am, we finally got to Onkel Herbert at 10:30. Oh well. It was a nice day catching up on things, going shopping with Herbert, and going out to eat at Am Vreed, our currywurst restaurant.

24SEPT- Free day with Herbert

I spent time doing repairs on my bicycle, and actually got it working better than ever before. It was quite nice to have had the bicycle repair class. In the evening, Herbert made a barbeque of pork chops and a type of “bacon” that is well liked in Germany. Herbert introduced us to Federweisse and Zwiebelbrot. These are ususally consumed together, the Federweisse being a sweet wine made from young grapes, that is not available all the time. The Zwiebelbrot is onion bread, that Betsy and I did not really care for.

The bicycle now repaired and working better than ever!

At the Biergarten

Onkel Herbert with his new hat

A very rare plant in Herbert's yard. Name????

25SEPT- Bicycle ride

Unfortunately, I was to spend only one day riding my bicycle. I programmed a route from the internet, and was able to put it on my Garmin. With that, off I went. Without hard maps or a guide book, the Garmin is a touch frustrating since it will not be able to five directions when you are not moving. Also, it can be difficult to read when it is sunny or with polarized sunglasses. I did multiple wrong turns, only to be told to make a U-turn and go back. All in all, it was a great experiment, which showed limited utility for serious route finding, but something nice to have available. I was able to ride a little more than 30 km in 2 hours. Hopefully, I can come back and do some lengthy rides.

Herbert introduced us to a German tradition of Federweisse and Zwiebelbrot (onion bread). The Federweisse is a very sweet wine made from young grapes, and I’ve never seen it available in the US.

A Schrebergarten close to Herberts Haus

26SEPT – Abschied von Herbert

we told Herbert goodbye and hopped on die Bahn to Leipzig, with two train changes.  We arrived in Leipzig and found our hotel without difficulty. Betsy and I were a little bit amazed that it was much nicer than I thought, in fact, probably one of the nicer and more modern hotels that I have ever stayed in. We took a walk through the city, observing the Alte Rathaus, Nicholai Kirche, and Thomas Kirche, the two churches where Bach performed and taught. It was here that I discovered that I had a portion of our journey off by exactly one day, so in a panic had to change plans that set everything right. It was decided that we would go straight from Leipzig to Würzburg. A few phone calls later, and all was in order.

Betsy at the Thomas Kirche

Old Building viewed from our hotel room

27SEPT2011 Würzburg

It was quite easy to catch the train to Würzburg, going through the town of Fulda. We were delayed a half hour in Fulda, but arrived nicely to Hannes and Katja’s house. After a bite to eat, they took us out to a portion of the Main (River) that I would have ridden by bicycle. It was also cruel it was so beautiful. We stopped in several small towns. The most fascinating was Miltenberg, where we walked through the town. Unfortunately, I forgot my camera. This means that we must return someday to photograph this area. It would be nice to do the entire Main Radweg from Frankfurt to Bayreuth. That will take about two weeks in order to properly enjoy it, but will be difficult to talk any of my friends into doing this with me, and I don’t think Betsy would bite at the opportunity. Hannes and Katja suggested that earlier summer would be a better time to do it.

 

28SEPT2011 Bamberg

The morning started with walking the dog. Hannes then drove us through back roads to Bamberg. It was a very nice sight. I was surprised to see most of the main roads had associated bicycle paths. Franken is truly a cyclist’s paradise. Bamberg was nice, and we went to see the Bamberger Dom, with the Bamberger Ritter statue. Pope Clement II was also buried there.  It was an absolutely gorgeous and fantastic day while we walked through the town, stopping to have Apfelstreudel at a small restaurant. Ausgezeichnet! Returning home, we stopped at a small restaurant to eat dinner. Betsy and I had the Bratkartoffeln, a regional specialty that was out of this world.

Hannes and Gustav

Wieder Nebel im Dorf

Hannes und Katja

In Bamberg

Senf (Mustard) field

Our room at the Wagners

29SEPT2011 Abschied von Hannes and Katja

We needed to make an early start to get to Rome. The train went through München and then Bologna. Everything went okay until we reached München. There, the train to Bologna was delayed by 45 minutes. This meant that we missed our planned train in Bologna to Rome, but was able to find another train quickly. The trains were packed with Americans, and not having seat reservations, Betsy and were occasionally left sitting a distance apart. That didn’t matter too much. The ride across western Austria and Northeast Italy (Dolomite region) was absolutely stupendous, especially Brenner Pass. We made it to Rome, and was able to quickly find our hotel and prepare for a busy day tomorrow.

30SEPT2011 The Vatican

Getting to the Vatican was easy on the Metro. We arrived a bit early and waited at the museum entrance to go in. The first part of the tour was the museums that historically were able to be accessed only by der Papst, until the Vatican needed money. Then they turned it into a tourist facility. The various museums consisted of either statues and artifacts from ancient Rome, tapestries,  and maps of Italy done up in elaborate fresco style. Following the Papal museums, we entered the Sistine Chapel. Its experience was diminished by the massive crowds. The paintings were truly impressive. We then went to St. Peter’s Basilica, the largest church building in the world, and, unstated by the tour guide, the indirect cause for the reformation. Peter’s bones are supposedly kept in the crypt here. The oddest display was the body of the recent pope John Paul, when it was noted that five years after his burial, the body had not yet shown signs of decay. This was interpreted as a miracle and thus beatified him.

Fortress Vatican

The School of Athens - quite a large fresco painting

Inside the Vatican Museum

The Pieta in St. Peters

Papst John Paul failing to rot - too much liquor?

Central area of St. Peter's - Peter's bones are below

Looking backwards in St. Peter's

St. Peter's Square

After lunch, we went to see the other three basilicas in Rome. First was St. Pauls outside the gate, which reportedly held the bones of St. Paul.  It was rebuilt several times, but was the second largest church in Christendom. The third basilica was St Johns located in the Laterine palace complex, on the southeast side of then the old walls of Rome. This was where the Popes lived until 1377. Again, it was a truly impressive building. The authenticating relics were splinters from the birth crib of Christ. Across the street was a building that housed the steps which Christ had to climb up to the judgment hall of Pontius Pilate. Pilgrims now come from all over the world to go up these stairs, which is only allowed if you go up on your knees saying three prayers on each step. The stairs were packed. You could go up other stairs to the top to notice the “suffers” achieving the last steps, and thus receiving additional blessing from the church. The last basilica was the smallest, but still a grand structure, St. Maria Magiorre, close to our hotel, and built for the “virgin” Mary.  I don’t remember the relic. The interesting thing is that the bones of Benini the architect are buried here. Supposedly the location of the church was identified when snow was identified on this location on 05AUG. many moons ago. It is the only church that hadn’t undergone some sort of destruction over the years.

St. Paul's Basilica

Chair where the Papst speaks ex cathedra in St. John's

Climbing the stairs Jesus climbed - on knees ONLY!

Picture of Jesus painted by God himself!

Inside Maria Magiorre Basilica

This day gave much to reflect. I could imagine Luther and others coming to Rome to see practices which occurred. Recent conservative evangelicals have apparently gone to Rome and come back with enthusiasm about reuniting the branches of Christianity. I came back scared, wondering that I hadn’t seen yet another version of idolatry, and a complete misconception of the church regarding gaining merit. Their fixation on relics, “sainthood”, practices to gain additional merit, the attention to the Pope and pompous splendor all made me quite happy that I was not a Catholic. Perhaps the pope should spend more time reigning in the sex practices of priests, and perhaps they should identify that practices such as touching certain objects or performing certain rituals does absolutely nothing to ones salvation. We need to remind ourselves how correct the Reformers of the church were.

01OCT – Ancient Rome

Betsy and I did a tour of ancient Rome today. First, I’d like to say something about tours. They are a little bit corny, in that you really feel like a tourist. But, there is also a huge advantage. The blessings of tours are 1. You don’t have to wait in lines, 2. Somebody explains things to you so that you see the things that you would otherwise have missed, and 3. The tour is done is a very systematic fashion which most efficiently, yet slowly covers what you would wish to see. There is usually plenty of time for photos. We walked from our hotel to the coliseum, where we got a fairly good tour from top to bottom. We then went to the Roman forum, seeing the senate house, the various buildings (now in ruin) of the forum area, and ending on the Palatine Hill, the location of the former residences of the emperors. It was described the absolute former beauty of these places, including the coliseum, which had luscious marblework everywhere, the ceilings and walls were painted with beautiful designs, the floors were marble, and everything had a splendid sense to it. After the tour, Betsy and I walked back to the hotel a circumlocuitous route, including Gesu (first Jesuit church), The Pantheon, and the Trevi fountain. We were pooped and the weather was hot. We didn’t do much the rest of the day.

Roman gladiators

Inside the Colosseum

The Senate House of ancient Rome

Ruins in the Forum

Gesu - 1st Jesuit Church - for Dennis

Trevi Fountain

02OCT – Der Papst

Today we saw the Papst. We were picked up from our hotel at 08:15, and got on a bus. Originally they thought that the Pope was going to be in his summer villa outside the city and we stopped by St. Peter’s square to buy relics that could be blessed. We picked up several crosses, some rosary beads, and a calendar, that are now blessed. It was then that it was realized that the Pope would be right here in St. Peters. So, the tour bus changed plans, and took us first to Nuova Plaza, followed by a ride up in the hills west of Rome and overlooking the city. It was a gorgeous site, but the bus did not stop for photos. We finally got back to St. Peters at 11:00 and the Papst comes out right at noon. Next to where we were waiting, a German band group came that set up their music stands and started playing German marching music.  The entire St. Peter’s Square soon filled with thousands of people, many actually taking this serious, and  to a good many, this was the highlight or pinnacle of their entire life. To them, they saw a glimpse of God. Soon, the Papst came to the window, and actually spoke for 15 minutes, first in Latin, then French, English, German, Spanish and some other language that I didn’t catch. After we blessed, we walked back to the hotel, crossing the Tiber River, and walking through the small streets of Rome to get a flavor of Sunday Roman life.

Back to St. Peter's to see der Papst

Der Papst giving us a blessing

Bridge across the Tivere (Tiber)

03OCT – Off to Firenze

This was an uneventful day, save for a few events. I was notified on the train that I MUST have reservations for that particular train Nothing said that the particular train that I was on demanded reservations. So, I had to pay up. Then, after recouping from a little GI upset, all went otherwise well. Firenze is a quaint little town, with lots of shops, and old sites. The Duomo is huge and gorgeous.  Tomorrow is the tour…

The Duomo

04OCT2011 Firenze tour

We met on the Vecchio Bridge, which goes across the Alto River. There are multiple shops on the bridge, at one time declared by the Medicis to be only jewelry shops. We walked by the Uffizi Museum, which used to house the Medici family, followed by the City Hall, where the Michelangelo statue of David used to stand. It was the courtyard in front of this building where Savaronola was burned at the stake. The tour continued to see the Mercantile Square, and the little Pig. We then walked through a number of quaint neighborhoods until we arrived at a small Gelato shop where the gelato is made fresh every day. It tasted awesome! The last stop was the Academia Museum, where we were able to see the statue of David by Michelangelo, a quite spectacular edifice of marble. After retreat to the hotel for a few hours we walked off to the Crucis Church, where Dante, Machiavelli and Michelangelo were buried. The guard would not let us in. We again had a late dinner, Betsy with spaghetti, and me with pizza.

Square outside "City Hall" where Savaronola was burned at the stake

Ponto Vecchi

River through Firenze

The killing of Medusa

Inside the Duomo

Crucis church holding Michaelangelo, Dante and Machiavelli

Thoughts on Italian food. It is far better than French food, but I prefer German food. The pizza is very thin crust, with very little topping. The spaghetti has almost no sauce on it. The flavors are great. Chicago remains my favorite place for pizza. Giordanos or Edwardos offers pizza that Italy cannot compete with. Even still, I could survive quite nicely off of Italian food. French food, I’d worry about what sort of slug or snail or animal head they may be serving me to eat.

Thoughts on the train. On this trip, we learned that the train service is not quite as reliable as we thought, and that if you have many connections, they are not to be counted on if the time between connections is tight. The lesson is to not travel so far in a single day and limit connections. The only difficulty would be in finding a hotel in connecting cities, unless you actually planned for it. This means that the idea of using a Eurail Pass and hopping on a train anywhere, going where you please, is not such a great idea. I’ll need to do a costing analysis, but with all the added fees for reservations, etc., it diminishes the value of the Eurail pass. Also, I haven’t seen extremely added value in first class over second class. It doesn’t make too much sense to me, in that the seats are nearly the same, and the first class cabins are usually a bit harder to find.

05OCT2011 Back to Krefeld

So, we had plans to go from Firenze to Krefeld. The plan was for 3 train transfers assuming everything went well. The first train went from Firenze to Milan okay. The next Italian train went from Milan to Zürich, a very beautiful ride, but for no good reason, the train was about a half hour late. We considered a number of choices, but noting a train leaving soon to Basel, we decided to take our chances and hop it. In Basel, we found a train soon after arrival to Frankfurt, and it was then easy to find a train to Düsseldorf. In Düsseldorf, the train transferred to Krefeld, and in Krefeld, we transferred to a bus to Engerstraße and a short walk to Herbert’s house. We arrived at about 10 pm, about an hour later than we had planned with the fewer transfers.

06OCT2011 Rest day in Krefeld

We were able to relax with Herbert, play with Arras, and pack. I was able to go to the store for Gummibåren, sauerkraut, and Düsseldorfer senf. We were going to go to the Zoo, but the rains began and we decided to do nothing. We did go out to eat that evening, and I was able to spend a last chance with Herbert, talking politics, philosophy, etc.

07OCT2011 Home

What a long flight! Not much more to say. It feels good to have your feet back in familiar territory.

 

 

 

Glacier National Park Cycle Road Tour

September 6th, 2011
 

The adventures of Ken and Russ 01SEPT11 to 05SEPT11

Logan Pass

01 SEPT11 Finished call that went overnight, with few calls. I was able to sign out to Sneller Moreller and then take off.  I met Russ at his house and we took off at 8:15am. When we got to Whitefish, we had dinner and then stayed in a total dive of a motel. Drive was 570 miles, taking 9 hours.

Heading toward West Glacier

On the road to Essex

Izaac Walton Inn

 

 

 

 
Train headed to Marias Pass

02 SEPT11 Parked car at Columbia Falls Airport, and took off. Stayed at the Isaac Walton Inn in Essex, MT. 3297 Cal, 719 meters of ascent. 4:24 time 85.5 km. This hotel is a historic building that housed railway workers in yesteryear who maintained the tracks in winter. It is now an elegant hotel, where one could watch the trains go by, just west of Marias Pass.

03SEPT11 Essex to  St. Mary via Looking Glass Hill Time 6:35, Distance 96.7 km, Ascent 1534 meters, cal 3883.

Marias Pass

View from Looking Glass Hill

Marias Pass went quite smooth, about 400 meters of climbing, and we arrived in East Glacier Park at about 11:30, so had lunch there. The route immediately started climbing up Looking Glass Hill. The views were stupendous, but the road had no shoulder, was busy, and persistent 6-7% grade, another 400 meters of climbing. The rest of the trip to St. Mary was three subsequent climbs, finally exhausting me, but Russ was handling all okay. The final 8 km descent was glorious. We stayed in a small budget hotel in town.

04SEPT11 St Mary to West Glacier via Going to the Sun Road across Glacier National Park. 873 meters ascent, 3143 Calories, 4:44 time, 73.5 km. Seven miles of this trip (not counted) was via a mandatory shuttle bus along Lake McDonald. This was moderately strenuous after a very strenuous day. Russ handled it well, but he was performing the first Touring time trial up Logan Pass.

Headed West on Going to the Sun Road

Peak seen from Going to the Sun Road

Near the top of Logan Pass

 
Logan Pass

Peak seen from Logan Pass

 

Logan Pass

Descent from Logan Pass

Western Going to the Sun Road

West end of Going to the Sun Road

05SEPT11 West Glacier back to Airport, and then drive home.  37 km, 1:43 time, 1222 Calories, 169 meters ascent.

We returned by way of route 2, which left a mile of tight canyon road, very suited for photography, except that there was no shoulder on the road so it was impossible to comfortably stop. After returning to the car, we were able to drive home in reasonable time.

 

Alaska 01-07AUG2011

August 14th, 2011


Alaska 01-07AUG2011

This trip had several objectives. The first was to meet with Dr. Lattin and give a breast cancer update talk at his hospital. The second was to achieve a brief rest and relaxation while meeting friends, including not only the Lattins whom we met in Bangladesh, but also the Bankers, who attended Resurrection Presbyterian church with us in the past. We spent 3 nights in Anchorage, followed by three nights in Soldotna with the Lattins.

The first day in Anchorage was to simply settle in. We drove downtown, and shopped for moose hats and other Alaska paraphernalia. Betsy fell in love with the moose.

The second day, we drove up to Wasilla, and then out towards Tok. The mountains were stupendous. In the evening, we met with Jeff and Ellen Banker, and went out to eat. The seafood was incredible! The beer was quite good also.

The third day was mostly resting. I met with Jeff again, still recovering from hand surgery, and ran up to the top of Flattop Mountain. The most distinctive feature of Flattop Mountain is its flat top.

The fourth day, we checked out of our hotel and headed down to Soldotna. The drive is quite beautiful, with the seashore on one side, and immense mountains on the other side.

The fifth day, I gave my cancer talk. Later, we went out to dinner, and then drove to the beach in Kenai. We were able to see Mt. Iliamna and Mt. Redoubt.

The sixth day was a walk for life for Betsy and Anna, and a fishing trip for Jason, Nathan and myself. We drove down to Homer, and took off on a chartered boat out into Cook Inlet.

We spent much time with the kids.

Joshua

Noelle

Esther

I let Nathan run around with the camera for a bit, and noted that he wasn’t taking care to compose his shots. To illustrate the importance of adequate view in a photo, I took a photo of him. Included are photos Nathan took of the parents.

Nathan

Dad according to Nathan

Mom, according to Nathan

It was sad for Betsy and I to leave Alaska. It was more enjoyable than our last visit, and suggested returns, especially with friends. I also noted that the roads typically had quite wide shoulders and thus makes it quite conducive to cycle touring. All we need to worry about are moose and bear.

Special thanks to the Bankers and Lattins for making this trip quite special.

Selkirk Loop

June 8th, 2011

The Selkirk Loop Bicycle Ride 02-06JUNE2011

Russ A. and I had been planning this loop for quite a while. We had other loops in mind, such as going to Glacier National Park, but realized that the snow conditions were not permissive of a ride anywhere we wished. There is a website that promotes this loop (www.selkirkloop.org), so we decided that this would be  perfect choice. We drove to the start of the loop in Newport, Washington in a driving rain, hoping that the weather would clear. We stayed in a cheap motel and took off the next morning. Here is a map of the loop, and then our Garmin statistics…

03JUNE – Newport, WA to Bonners Ferry, Idaho, riding time 4:21, 101 km, 295 m ascent, 3755 calories – mostly cloudy weather, no rain; stayed in a hotel in Bonners Ferry

04JUNE- Bonners Ferry to Gray Creek, B.C., riding time 6:29, 125.5 km, 949 m ascent, 4872 calories – perfect weather, stayed in our tent at an RV park at Gray Creek, on Lake Kootenay

05JUNE- Gray Creek to Salmo, B.C., riding time 4:56, 88.54 km, 848 m ascent, 4098 calories  - again, perfect weather. Hard climb noted out of Nelson.

06JUNE- Salmo, B.C., to Newport, WA, riding time 7:33, 147 km, 623 m ascent, 5864 calories, we took the LeClerc Road variant, which was very flat, along the Pend Oreille River. The weather was perfect, but we drove back to Tacoma that evening, noting a very hard rain on the drive from Newport to Spokane, WA.

Total stats: 23:19 hours riding time, 462 km (287 miles), 2715 meters elevation gain (8907 ft), 18,689 calories burned off. We essentially accomplished the loop we wished, though it took us a little less time than anticipated. The only significant plan alteration was that we hoped to go to Kaslo and New Denver on the extended upper loop, but the weather did not look like it was going to stay perfect long enough for us to enjoy an entirely dry trip, and thus gave reason for doing the standard Selkirk Loop rather than a variant. Besides, we needed an excuse to return. Also, Russ had an injury to his thigh on the second day of riding, which suggested that it be best that we not push matters too hard.

In all, it was a delightful ride, and I had a wonderful time with Russ, and am already planning our next touring trip. It would be helpful if we knew what to expect in towns, and maps like the Adventure Cycle Association would be nice to have for all towns. Some towns on the map were essentially ghost towns, others had stores and motels and other provisions, and it was impossible to know what to expect along the route. This made it harder to plan for stops. Here are some photos of the trip…

Russ with the Selkirks in the background

Me on my loaded Co-Motion bicycle

Lake Kooteney in British Columbia

Lake Kooteney scene

The Glass House - built out of embalmers bottles

Lake Kooteney

On the Ferry crossing Lake Kooteney

West Arm of Lake Kooteney looking at the town of Nelson

Our hotel in Salmo, B.C.

Russ humping up a long steep hill out of Salmo

Russ and I in Metaline Falls

Last day - along the Pend D'Oreille River

So, we’re back. Tired, but, it was a wonderful trip.

Spring 2011 Bicycle Trips

May 26th, 2011


28-29APRIL – Amtrak trip to Portland with Russ A.
05-10MAY – Trip to Lexington, KY, and rides with Peter T.
19-22MAY – Trip to Dayton, WA with Russ A. and Pete

The itch to ride continues, but the rains continue unabated. Our Spring started out with a delightful visit by Scott & Lee Pyles, who direct the mission and hospital that we visited in Cameroon.

My first adventure was with Russ. I needed to pick up some furniture at Lew’s house, so decided to take the Amtrak down to Portland, ride the Touring bikes from the Amtrak Station to Oregon City, rent a U-Haul there, pick up the furniture, and ride up the Clackamas the next day. We had a moderate amount of rain on the trip, but our equipment held up quite well.

Russ in front of the Hawthorne Bridge, Portland, Oregon


The next trip was to Lexington, KY. The first day was spent at the hospital, learning about how Peter put together a multispecialty clinic. The next day was a trip from Lexington to his farm in Stanford. Peter figured out a route that took Tate’s Creek road south, crossing the Kentucky River in a Ferry boat, then proceeding along multiple backroads until we reached his farm. Unfortunately, I had to keep my camera in a backpack that I wore on my back, making it difficult to easily take photos. The total ride was 83.7 km, took us 4:36.
Once we reached the farm, the camera came out. I did some mountain biking around the farm. After we returned to Lexington the next day, we did a 25 mile ride up to the Horse Farm north of Lexington.

Attention Walmart Shoppers - here comes Peter. This rig gets him just about everywhere!


The family plot on the farm - completely rebuilt by Peter.


Morning on the farm.
The day before returning home, Peter worked out a loop ride in Northern Kentucky, titled the Ridges of Grant County. That was 32.5 km, taking 1:30. That afternoon, we went canoeing on the Elkhorn River. I did not bring my camera on the canoe trip!
Peter on the ridge.

An old flour mill, still in operation, powered by a water mill


Back home, Russ and I got the itch to return to Dayton. Pete went with us (not Peter), and Howie acted as our SAG vehicle.
19MAY 116.6 km, 4:54, 4483 cal, loop taken from Dayton down to Walla Walla and back via middle and lower Waitsburg road.
20MAY 111.4 km, 5:00, 1078 m elevation gain, 4256 cal burned, riding northward to the Snake River.
21MAY 89.2 km, 4:07 718 m elevation gain, 3054 cal, going from Dayton to Starbuck, and then south. There was much steep climbing, but we had a horrid headwind which ultimately exhausted all of us and we aborted early.

Early green wheatfields, stretching beyond the horizon


Wheat fields as far as you could see


United Bicycle Institute

March 27th, 2011


United Bicycle Institute- Ashland, Oregon 21-25MAR2011
Back to school! This time, it was bicycle repair school. The drive was 7 hours each way. I had heard about the UBI from the General during the Adventure Cycling Association Introduction to Touring class, and wanted to learn more about bicycle repair. This introduction was very well done, the instructors not only very knowledgeable, but very patient and superb at teaching. It was a most enjoyable week of not only getting away from work, but of actually learning something useful.
I drove down to Ashland from Puyallup on Sunday. I stayed about 3 km from the Institute at Cedarwood Inn, an inexpensive but nice motel. Monday was focused on wheels. We first learned how to change a tire, and the different types of tires. We learned about taking the hub apart, removing the gears, re-packing the bearings, and getting everything back together. A short discussion on truing wheels was made, but little hands on.

Nathan (instructor) tells a joke and Dan looses control!


Bryce works on his mountain bike


Tuesday was pedals, cranksets and bottom brackets. I completely disassembled my bottom bracket and put it back together. We also learned about removing, inspecting and changing chains.

Tom was my bench partner


Matt (instructor) helps Jose


Dan the Canadian, not laughing this time


Wednesday was derailleur day, starting with the rear derailleur, and then the front. Oddly, the front derailleur is more touchy to tune up than the rear derailleur. In the evening, I went for a bicycle ride. I went up route 66 headed for Klamath Falls, but got only about 14 km before the weather became a little concerning, and it started to get dark.

Route 66


More Route 66


Lake on Route 66
Gnarly trees on Route 66- Mirkwood
Thursday was brake day. We had to completely dis-assemble caliper brakes, and then re-install them on the bicycle correctly. The instructors were a bit fussy about doing things correctly, since a bad setting for brakes could have serious consequences on the road. The weather was horrible today, with a mixture of rain and snow, so no thought of riding was possible.

Rich helps Tom


Matt shows us how to really wash a bicycle


The framebuilding shop with Robert (student) on right


Friday entailed pulling off the handlebars, headset, and removing the stem from the bike. This was fairly straight forward. We learned the correct method of washing and oiling a bicycle. After getting a tour of the frame building shop, we were handed certificates of completion and “graduated”. There was no test, since the true measure of success was in how well the bicycle worked.Bryce needed a lift up to Portland which provided me a delightful companion to keep me awake on the road, and then I was able to get home by 2300 Friday night.
To Matt, Rich, and Nathan I say “Thank You”. To everybody else who enjoys riding bicycles, this is a class very much worth taking. It’s fun. Matt, Rich and Nate are delightful characters that add a tremendous enthusiasm to not only cycle repair, but to cycle riding in general. A class like this could someday save your life, if you are out and away, with a broken bicycle. It has my highest recommendation.

The workbench


Our class - from top left clockwise - Michael, Bryce, George, Ryan, Jordan, Rico, me, Bridget, Don, Tom, Rebecca and Dan.

San Antonio SSO Meeting

March 12th, 2011


The Society of Surgical Oncology Meeting in San Antonio, 01-06MARCH2011
Dr. Tate is pictured in the photograph trying to remember the Alamo. We remembered it for several minutes, then paused to enjoy a cigar while sitting on park benches just across from the Alamo. We inquired of the status of PeeWee’s bicycle in the basement of the Alamo, and learned that the Alamo actually has two small basements, large enough to hold a bicycle. You can’t believe everything that you see in the movies. The meetings were long and arduous, but we were able to get 34 CME credits for this venture. The conference literally went from dawn until dusk, and so we did not have a lot of time to spend reflecting on the Alamo, but we did get around a little bit. The conference was at the large conference facility just next to the river walk. We’d go down to the river to eat our lunch.


You can see that we were dressed up to the hilt. This is sort of a snobby conference, as most surgical meetings usually occur in more casual attire. The pathologists were having their meeting next door to us, where I was able to encounter one of the Puyallup pathologists. Notice his more casual attire.

We were able to see the San Antonio imitation of the Seattle Space Needle.

It was one of the better conferences that I’ve gone to as of late. Most notably, it was announced that we must stop doing so many axillary dissections, and that while it would have been malpractice a week before to not complete an axillary dissection when the sentinel lymph node was grossly positive, we are now committing malpractice to do the same. The Surgical Oncology gods have spoken and we must obey. NCCN guidelines will be slow to correct the new change in practice recommendations, but we will be patient. So, I return to Puyallup full of vim and vigor, and will be plagiarizing one of the talks I heard in presenting to the other surgeons and oncology doctors the new revelations from the randomized trials.
p.s. too much academia becomes hard to endure…

Trip to Belize — 05-11FEB2011

February 16th, 2011

Saturday 05FEB.   Betsy woke up at 2am and I an hour later in order to catch a 6am plane to Houston and then on to Belize. The flight went well, and the only real abuse was in customs in Belize. It was actually the worst we have ever been treated in going through customs, and even Bangladesh and re-entry into the US were never so bad, with them insisting on looking through our bags and then charging us customs on “suspicious” items, as well as taking away several blocks of cheese that we had with us. We ultimately met Dennis and Jonny and drove in darkness to their home.

Sunday 06FEB.   Day of rest, Dennis gave us a tour of the “colony”. It is impressive to see somebody surviving without public electricity or water. There was a relative drought, and so we had to be careful about water usage.

Monday 07FEB. Today, we rode into Belmopan, which is the capitol of Belize, in order for Jonny to renew his visa. We then toured San Ignacio, which is the largest town close to Dennis and Dottie’s house.

Tuesday 08FEB. It rained, and so plans were changed. Betsy went visiting with Dottie to various neighbors and I stayed home. Betsy and I later had coffee with the Schiemanns, a Geman couple living on Dennis’ land.

Wednesday 09FEB. Dottie toom us to 5 Sisters rezort and waterfall. It was south of Dennis and Dottie’s home and on the way to Caracol. The waterfalls demanded a short hike. Afterwards we went to Blancaneux resort, owned by Francis Ford Coppola and had lunch. This was a truly impressive resort… One that Betsy and I wouldn’t mind returning to some day.

Thursday 10FEB. Today, Dennis drove us to Spanish Lookout, an area of Belize owned by the Mennonites and in appearance like Iowa, though with palm trees. The Mennonites, in trying to escape the world, brought the world with them. Dennis needed to stop at a few hardware stores. Ralf Schiemann was with us, and was able to give me instruction in the German language. I enjoyed him.

Friday 11FEB. This day was a leisurely trip back home, with our plane leaving Belize City at 12:30 and arrival back in Seattle at 8 pm.

So, what did we accomplish? These are NOT in order of importance or significance!

1. We were able to get the slide scanner working for Dottie.

2. We had a wonderful time with Jonny.

3. We had a wonderful time with Dennis and Dottie.

4. We learned a lot about Belize culture and land.

5. We had multiple lectures from Dennis regarding “what’s going on” in the world, as well as theology/history lectures on the virtues of British Israelism.

6. Betsy and I had a nice break together.

7. We explored the possibility of buying land in Belize.

8. We got to meet many wonderful Belizeans, both immigrants as well as native Mayans.

We appreciate all that Dennis and Dotie did to make our trip a comfortable success, and recommend considering making Belize a possible vacation destination. When we return, we’d like to explore more of Belize, perhaps staying on the coast for several days to do some scuba diving, and definitely try to see Corazol, the large Mayan temple at the end the road Dennis and Dottie live on, and much farther south.

Washington D.C. 02-07OCT2010

October 15th, 2010

Washington D.C. 02-07 OCTOBER 2010 — American College of Surgeons Meetings

I don’t especially enjoy going to Washington D.C. It is a large dirty town, expensive, mediocre food, bad beer, and little that interests me. When you have seen the Capitol once, you’ve seen it enough. The building attempts to portray strength. Yet, I continually am befuddled as to which idiot decided on that silly statue on top–probably it’s the same fools that cogitate and ruminate inside. The building sitting behind the Capitol building was even more despairing. To climb the steps of this edifice would best state old Dante’s words “Abandon all hope, ye who enter here”.

Correct. It is the Supreme Court building. Dennis, for your interest (and yours alone, since only you have read Tupper Saucey), notice the “mark of Cain” in the railing just off of the sidewalk. Needless to say, I did have one remarkably wonderful experience in D.C.

I went to church on Sunday morning to hear Mark Dever preach. This Sunday, Mark broke off from a series in Mark to speak specifically on the nature and doctrine of the church. The sermon was good, though Mark seemed to have a problem (like all Baptists) in seeing the importance of Old Testament in bringing light to the practices of the New Testament, especially in regard to the sacraments and the church. Oh well. It was a delight to hear solid preaching from a conservative scholar, only 3 blocks from the supreme court and capitol building.

Taking a walk to Barry’s house, I noticed that the Smithsonian Museum had a special on evolution. Those of you who know me realize that I contend that evolution is the greatest case of science in a state of dire confusion, just being wrong. I do take slight exception to that rule. While I believe that most people were created by God in God’s image, there are a few rare exceptions to the rule. If you look carefully at the pictures on this sign, you will notice that the “ape” in the lower right hand corner bears a striking resemblance to our current president. Perhaps BHO was a rare exception of the ape to man process?

Barry was a little stand-offish, and would not let me into his house. That’s okay, since I have no interest in visiting him anyway. Little does he know that there is more power in that church down the road (Capitol Hill Baptist) than all the might and military that old B. Hussain O. could ever muster up.

I did not take photos of the American College of Surgeons meeting. It was mostly a dog and pony show, though I learned a bit in the process. Much discussion related to the changing face of surgery. Sadly, most surgeons fail to see that we have brought much trouble on ourselves by letting medicine become a political process. We now are looking to people like BHO to solve our problems and he only makes them worse. Surprise, surprise.

There’s only one thing I really like about Washington, D.C. They have a great subway transportation system. It’s especially helpful when you wish to get out of Washington, D.C. The train takes you straight to the airport, without any hassle. Unfortunately, a moderate number of surgical meetings occur in D.C., meaning that in those years where the meetings take place in D.C., I will probably skip and look for meetings in Florida or Arizona, or Southern Cafilornia (no, that is NOT a mis-spelling!).

Im Vaterland mit Fahrrad

September 2nd, 2010

It was time to go to Germany, and discover the world of bicycle riding in Europe. Dr. Peter Tate was to meet me in Berlin with his bicycle, and I was bringing my Novara Element with the intention of leaving the bicycle with Onkel Herbert. Daughter Diane was able to get away from work and go with us, and she seemed content to take care of herself when Peter and I were out riding. Our plan was for a Blitzreise, spending three days in Berlin, three days in Leipzig with Herr Doktor Kretschmar, and three days in Krefeld with der berühmte Herr Doktor Feucht. Diane left us after Berlin to go see a friend in Frankfurt, and we met again in Krefeld. The trip included much learning about how to survive with a bicycle. It was especially the case with learning how to travel on public transportation with a bicycle, like riding the Bahn. Once arriving in Berlin, the first order of attention was to assembling the bicycle, and then to going out to get some Döner. We were able to take Peter on a walk around Berlin in order to show him the main sites, like the Bandenburger Tor.

21 AUG 20 km ride around Berlin– riding a bicycle around Berlin was easier than expected. Bicycles need to observe the same rules as cars, though they usually have special bicycle paths for bicycles. The rest of the day was spent taking a long walk with all three of us together and Diane as Stadtführerin.

22 AUG 108 km ride to Potsdam from Berlin, with bypass to see Sans Soucci and to loop around several lakes in the Potsdam area. This was a long ride, and the weather was perfect. On this trip, we learned how confusing it could be to try to find your way around, and we often went in circles. Streets are not often clearly marked, and they frequently change name for no good reason. To make matters worse, I was depending on a gps card for my Garmin Edge that would give me streets in Europe. The gps unit refused to accept the card, and so was left without a reasonable means of orientation and poor maps. I couldn’t have been more upset. Needless to say, the ride was awesome, and the palaces around Sans Soucci were overwhelming in their size and grandeur.

24 AUG Dresden. 4:30, 81 km3500 cal, 120 m– Peter and I arrived in Leipzig on 23AUG, and was picked up at the Hauptbahnhof by Dr. Kretschmar, whom I met last year while in Cameroon. He arranged for us to stay at a Ferienwohnhausrun by one of his friends. We were able to meet his parents and to have supper with them. The home-made sauerkraut was awesome. They also took us on a quick tour of Leipzig. On 24 AUG, Karsten, Peter and I were able to take off on our bicycles to the Elberadweg. We drove about 1 hour to our planned start, and off we went. The route was unbelieveably well cared for, and many people were on the road. It was fascinating to see a very large number of quite elderly people out riding their bicycles. We passed through the towns of Meißen, where the famous porcelain comes from, Dresden, and on. As we rode up stream, the canyon walls got steeper, and more impressive. There were multiple castles and elegant palaces along the way…. Nothing like one would ever see in the US. We then stayed in a very large Herberge, which looked like an old castle with a Turm, and nestled on the side of the canyon wall.

Peter and Carsten

Meißen

Peter in Dresden

Frauenkirche

Semper Oper

Our hostel was the upper right white “castle”

25 AUG. Konigstein to Neuhirschstein 90.6 km 5:17  3593 cal, 215 m ascent– the next day, we first rode 10 km up the Elbe to Konigstein, making a fairly steep climb up to the largest fortress (Festungen) in all of Europe. It was overwhelming. The trip back along the Elbe attempted further variations in order to see different things. At the end of the trip, it was very sad for me to have to say goodbye to Carsten, as I really appreciated seeing him and family again. I’ll definitely want to see him again in Cameroon, as well as spend time with him again in Deutschland.

Königstein

Königstein

Summer palace in Dresden

End of the ride in Hirschstein

26-27 AUG — we took the Bahn from Leipzig to Krefeld, and then rode our bicycles from the Krefeld Hauptbahnhof to Herbert’s Haus. The next day, Diane, Peter and I rode the regional transport to Düsseldof. We also spent much time looking for a bicycle box in order to sent Peter’s bibcyle back to the US on the airplane with him. We finally found a box for him at the Rückenwind bicycle shop.

28 AUG Krefeld to Ossenberg and back.   5:42,  100.7 km     3673 cal, 127 m ascent. Today, Peter and I took off on our bicycles to ride up the Rhein. The bicycle path was reasonably well marked, but the road was not in nearly as good of shape as the route along the Elbe. Also, since we were in the  Ruhrgebiet, we saw a huge number of very large factories. At the end, the weather got us, and we were caught in a squall. Peter wanted to stop for a beer, but I just wanted a warm shower and dry clothes.

It’s been hard saying goodbye again to so many friends. Carsten, Herbert, Katja and Hannes and Peter. Having left a bicycle with panniers at Herberts Haus, I now have no excuse not to return to Deutschland for another ride. I’ll either do the upper Rhein, the Schwarzwald, or perhaps something over in the Franken/Spessart area, heading to Prague. Hopefully, the next trip might be a little longer, and focused on just one region, to prevent spending a lot of time just getting from one place to another.

North Cascades Bicycling 26-29JUL2010

July 30th, 2010

26JUL2010   Total travel time 2:49, 68 km, 120 m ascent, 2958 cal.
I finally have been able to break away for a week to do some cycle touring. Russ A and I were dropped off in Darrington by Lucas, who rode about 40 miles with us. We spent the first night in the park lawn of Newhalem, having grabbed dinner at the country store, which closes about 5 pm. We were able to order some cold sandwiches, and even a beer. I was then able to finish Pat Buchanan’s book, and finish writing a review for this book on Betsy’s iPad, which she so graciously let me borrow. I’m beginning to love these little devices, as they are perfect for travel, since all I need is some word processing, and occasional Internet connection on WiFi. It is awesome at holding a charge. I thought that I’d never like the bugger, but I now prefer this over my laptop for travel, which is heavy, an energy monster, and not as versatile in many ways. I especially liked the iBooks option, which is a color improvement over the Kindle. The General (Pat C) had a Kindle on our ACA trip last year, and I was quite interested in it’s ability to provide availability to multiple books.

27JUL2010   Time 8:40 distance 120.3 km 1594 m total ascent, 6680 cal
Today was a most challenging day. We started from Newhalem, WA and rode to Winthrop. In the process, we needed to cross the North Cascades, and the pass is not an easy one. Actually, there are two passes, Rainy and then Washington Pass. After completing Rainy Pass on fully loaded touring bicycles, we were getting pretty beat. By the time we arrived in Winthrop, we were exhausted. It didn’t help that the last ten miles was greeted with a very strong head wind. Russ and I survived, especially owing to the spectacular scenery on the Passes. We might be invalids tomorrow!


28JUL2010   Time 3:11, distance 67 km, ascent 166 m, cal 2259
As one could see, today was an easy day. We needed it after yesterday, and today was also quite hot, especially in the afternoon. So, we rode from Winthrop tp Pateros. I am now looking out on the Columbia River. We went swimming in the hotel pool to cool off, and am able to relax. We’ve encountered a number of foreign cyclists on the route who are hitting the North Cascades, and it is interesting how much this part of the world attracts everybody else, yet this is only the second time I’ve ever been across the North Cascades highway. The cycle ride itself was reasonably flat, but the heat was still oppressive, as we followed the course of the Methow River before it flows into the Columbia River at Pateros.

29JUL2010  Riding time 4:40 distance 93 km, ascent 381 m, 3250 cal.
Travel today was between Pateros and Wenatchee, WA. The route followed the Columbia River all the way, though it was rolling hills, some as much as a persistent (2-3km) 5% grade. We started at 6 am in the morning, but by 10 am the heat was already quite sweltering. I couldn’t have ridden too much longer today because of the heat. The morning was absolutely gorgeous with sun glowing on the sides of the cliffs beside the Columbia River. We passed multiple fruit stands, affording us an opportunity to purchase fruit for the road. Peaches never tasted so good! Finally, in Wenatchee, we were able to catch the Trailway bus back to Tacoma. We wanted to take the train, but they would not allow us to check on our bicycles in Wenatchee, so, we took the bus. At first, Mr. Sourpuss at the checkout counter told us that we could not take our bicycles, but a very nice bus driver let us stick the bicycles In the luggage compartment anyway. So, it was a fantastic cycle trip with a fantastic friend.

I again did not take nearly enough photos. There isn’t much diffent that I’ll need to do for further road trips except to get in better shape. I hope that the issue is simply that of being a novice in cycle touring, and the more I do cycle touring with friends, I’ll be able to plan better, and utilize the time to not force mileage, but to enjoy each mile ridden. This will take time and experience. Further mid-summer trips should be planned for the coast, and not in eastern/central Washington. Maybe we could do part of the Pacific Coast route next summer.

Fahrrad fahren in Ost Washington

July 21st, 2010

Bicycle riding in Eastern Washington, the Palouse-Dayton, Walla Walla Region 15-18JULY2010

Russ, Luke, and I as well as Peter decided to head off to eastern Washington to do some cycle riding.

The above photo includes Pete, Howie, Jake, Lucas, and Russ standing in the Blue Mountains after visiting an old family hunting site.

We stayed with a relative of Russ, Howie, who has a cabin in the Blue Mountains of eastern Washington, next to his charming bruder Jake.

Howie is on the left, Jake on the right. We did short and long rides each day. The weather was gorgeous, though a bit hot for my liking, being up to 33?. The Palouse contains not only the Blue Mountains, but wheat fields as far as the eye could see. You can see our motley crew resting by a wheat field.

Each evening, we cooked up a meal, and Lucas would retreat to study. Study? My goodness, he has forgotten that he graduated from college!

Reality hit, and he had to pack off back home…

Total mileage was

15JUL 24.5 km, 414 m elevation gain

16JUL 120 km, 1173 m elevation gain

17JUL 95 km, 576 m elevation gain

18JUL 38 km, 325 m elevation gain

Bangladesh 2010

July 4th, 2010

07JUN2010 I’m currently sitting in the airport at Muscat, Oman. It is a very nice airport, and thankfully, all have been very helpful to me. I discovered only a few days before leaving that CheapOAir changed my reservations such that I was left with a 28 hour layover in Muscat, the thing that I dreaded most, being stuck in an airport for lengthy periods of time. There was no way that I could correct matters, though there was a glimmer of hope yesterday with Lufthansa suggested that I could be bumped for a day, which would have left me a 4 hour rather than 28 hour layover. Oh well. The trip started in Seattle. The checkout person was German, so we did the entire exchange auf Deutsch. I was pleased to discover that I was also able to fare quite well in the Frankfurt Flughafen, my German ever so slowly improving, though mostly in interpretation, and not in ability to communicate. I’ve been able to read two large books so far in my travel, well as study some German and Bengali. I sadly discovered that I left my light yellow rain jacket on the last airplane, but won’t discover until this evening whether it showed up in lost and found. The airport is quite fascinating, and am surprised at the amount of liquor that could be found here, even though it is a strict Muslim country. I’ll probably pick up some frankincense on my way back from Bangladesh. I wish that Betsy was with me. I miss her, even though she seems to be constantly anxious about any sort of imaginable trivia. I’ve seen only a few spooks so far, and most people seem to be dressed in Indian western dress. I am quite surprised at the prevalence of Western culture, and especially English, in remote parts of the world, such as here in Oman.  Watching Muslim and Hindu families come by, seeing people interact and converse, it amazes me that cultural differences are over-emphasized, and how similar the characteristics of all humankind tend to be.

08JUN2010 Finally in BD. Babil got me at the airport, and we went for lunch at a local Bangladeshi restaurant. I’m eating with my hands again! You don’t use a spoon and fork in BD but pick up your food with your hands. It was wonderful to see old friends here in Chabagong, including Steve K, Steve W., Jason & Anna, John Tripura, Poromil, Uttam, Sujan, and the Collins. They make the trip worth it! Please forgive me if I left your name out…

20JUN2010 A 12 day interlude is now noted. I have been quite busy at the hospital, and enjoying my interactions. Like before, I have spent much of my free time in either talking with friends (of whom are both Americans and Bangladeshis), and reading. A number of books have already been devoured. Several books will not be reported in my website for the sake of Christian charity. Dr. Lattin has also loaned my some old copies of First Things.  I find First Things quite fascinating with a mixture of feelings. About a 1/3 of the articles are delightful and of interest to me. They utilize English at its best, a subject which leaves me rather jealous, because, try as I may, I find it impossible to write well. Every time I re-read what I write, I find grammatical errors, confusing statements, inappropriate use of words, self-manufactured words, and other stupidities. Brother Dennis only points out the most glaring examples. Yet, while reading First Things, I am able to obtain a vicarious joy in the best use of the English language, and the thoughtfulness of the articles. I am less inclined to delight in First Things because of its replete Romish Catholicism, as well as its slightly too liberal stretch of “co-belligerency” to Rome, Eastern Orthodoxy, Judaism, etc. Yet, Neuhaus is a first class writer, and often strikes a cord of agreement with me that I am able to appreciate.  My time is also spent in reflection on life in general. I miss Betsy tremendously. I do not feel complete without her. I’ve reflected much on the nature of missions, especially missions in a Muslim realm. Modern Western sympathies for Muslim culture and religion seem to lack an appreciation of the working of Muslims when found as the predominant cultural or religious group in a community. This has been seen by me both in BD as well as in Cameroon. It is a religion of slavery, joylessness, oppression. It offers minimal respect for women, disguising the depersonalization and subjugation of the female population all in the name of modesty. Yet, devout Muslim men seem to be the most lustful of all of God’s creatures, and the presence of a Burqua doesn’t quench their lusts. Generalizations tend to betray the large amount of quite decent living and courteous Muslim people that I’ve encountered, who have been most helpful in my travels. Like last time in BD, probably the hardest thing to endure is the persistent beggarliness of all Bangladeshis. It’s hard not to respond to that, though agreements with the mission to not give more than meager gifts to the natives must be observed. A typical BD native seems to view the missionary Christian as the equivalent of “wealth”, and I remain perplexed as to how to personally respond. I sometimes feel that my presence in BD is perhaps more a problem than good for the gospel.

27JUN2010 I have just finished my last day of call, and will be wrapping things up this week. Call kept me up both nights, the first to do a D&C, and then next night to answer questions about a patient who decided to go into the dying mode. It is monsoon season, and rain occurs unlike anything in the Northwest. It will rain torrentially for about twenty minutes, and then it will be sunny. Rains occur about 2-3 times a day. I tried going out once in a downpour, with an umbrella, and found that I was soaked from head to toe, as the rain falls horizontally with a small wind. You’re always given a minute or so premonition of coming rain, as the wind begins to blow. You don’t see dark storm clouds, just a wind. I’ve now met with all my friends on the hospital compound, and feel like I’ve been able to spend quality time with them. I haven’t taken enough photographs, and will need to spend one last day running around with my camera. Nurul (his name sounds more like Noodle as the Bengalis do a different sort of “r”) will be taking me up to Chittagong. Meanwhile, only one thing is on the mind of most Bangladeshis—the World Cup in soccer. Oddly, the nation cheers for only two teams, Argentina and Brazil. It will be tragic when both of those teams loose.

02JULY2010 I’m now sitting in the airport in Chittagong. It’s the first time in ages that I’ve been able to access fast internet (and free, also!!!!). A few Taka and the airport assistant was able to shuttle me through to the head of the line, and get me through without a problem. The airport scanner was broken, and so they quickly let me through when I told them that I was a daktar (doctor). The ride to the airport was with Nurul, who drove quite decently, and we arrived in generous time to catch the plane. Although Cameroon roads were the worst I’ve ever encountered, Bangladeshi roads are not exactly super-highways, and more than once, we almost hit a dog, rickshaw, and oncoming bus. I can’t believe that more accidents don’t happen in this country. Later… I’m now in the airport in Muscat, Oman, waiting for my Papa John’s pizza to cook. I happened to be the only white person on the plane from Chittagong to here, and it’s nice to see a few English speaking people around. Bangladeshi behavior is close to hilarious. They are very pushy in line, always trying to get ahead of anybody else. Once the plane hit ground, almost immediately, about half the passengers popped their seatbelts and were standing to fetch their overhead items. Strange. Papa Johns was quite good, not greasy, close to what one would eat at home. I ordered the super Papas, since they didn’t have the Arabian Always special. I presume it was halal. The checkout lady was in black dress, not a full burqua, but had absolutely no personality; no smile, no regard for people, nothing.

Papa Johns in Muscat, Oman

Flowers of Bangladesh

Selling Jackfruit in Chabagong

John and Nimmi with hospital schematic

In the market with Sujan

I now think about the trip summary. I feel that it was a valuable trip, especially being able to meet old friends, and acquire new friends in Malumghat. I was able to give Steve K. free time to work on the design of the new hospital with the architect. I especially enjoyed meeting John M. and his wife Nimmi, who live in North Carolina, though they come from Chennai (formerly Madras) India. What did I forget? 1. Insect repellent. The last four days, the bedbugs came out, and I was covered head to toe. Interestingly, at the same time, I read recently that an Abercrombie and Finch was closed in New York City because of bedbugs. Go figure. 2. Flashlight (headlamp) – the lights go out way too frequently, and I have to ride a very bumpy road on my bike at night to get to the hospital when on call. 3. Voltage converter/adapters- the only thing that wouldn’t work was my beard trimmer, but sticking a three prong plug into the outlets provided tended to put a terrible strain on the plug. It would have been better to have an adapter.

I am considering a return in late January/early February 2011 with Betsy. If we go, I think I will try the oriental route, and maybe stay several days in Bangkok. Jason noted that the town was quite interesting, and fairly modern, worth a visit. We’ll see how the Lord leads.

So, as soon as we arrived home, Betsy and I went out to purchase a new vehicle. Diane needed our RAV4, and we sold it to her since we were considering a pickup. We ended up with a Toyota Tacoma.

Life Update 19APR10

April 19th, 2010

Cannon Beach
It’s been over three months since I’ve posted about events in Betsy’s and my life. A lot has gone by, like, Easter! I had out the Österlamm that Herbert gave me about 6 years ago.

So, here is a quick catchup, mostly with photos…

1. Deutsch Unterricht– I restarted Saturday AM German class. Between reading the Magazine Deutsch Perfekt and going to German class at the Tacoma German Language School, I’ve been able to keep from totally loosing my language skills. Here are some photos of the class, as well as the teacher, Yvonne. She is from Dresden, Germany, and is unbelievably patient with us old farts.

2. Oregon Coast– in early February, Betsy and I took a trip to the Oregon Coast. The lead photo was from Cannon Beach. The Oregon Coast is one of the most beautiful coasts in the world.

3. Cycling & trainer– Betsky now has a new bicycle, named Meggie II, after her first bicycle. We took a brief 10 mile ride recently…

Betsy also let me get a Tacx Virtual Reality Trainer. These are quite nice at being able to cycle train in bad weather or when you only have an hour to spend on a bicycle and need a hard workout. It works by connecting a computer to a gizmo that your back bicycle wheel sets in. When you are going “uphill”, the wheel offers resistance in proportion to the steepness of the hill, and when going downhill, it may actually spin your tire for you. It is close to reality.

You can see that it really chews up your training tire. Meanwhile, you watch a video screen, which you set to a number of rides that you may wish to experience, throughout Europe. As you pedal faster, the scene moves faster, quite comparable to reality.

The screen will also show your power output (in watts), cadence (how fast you’re pedaling), heartrate, bicycle speed, time, and distance. This allows you to monitor closely how well you are improving on your endurance. Here is Jonathan on the bicycle trainer…

4. Bicycle Tour 15-18APRIL2010. This trip was to celebrate tax day, April 15. Russ A. and I drove to Chelan, WA, and took off from there. Our first stop was 52 miles later in Twisp, WA. The road either followed the Columbia River, or tributaries, leaving us at a resort town just east of the North Cascades pass.

The next day went from Twisp to Coulee Dam, a 85+ mile ride, with fully loaded touring bikes, and about 7000 feet elevation gain. Here was our first challenge, that of crossing Loup Loup Pass. We were concerned about the weather since it had snowed on the pass just a week before. It was quite cold, but we were working so hard to cross the pass that we were over-heated anyway.

We then ended up in Omak. We met a kindly elderly gentleman on the street to enquire about our options, and he suggested that we NOT go the way we had planned, but instead take an alternative route that was marked on the map as gravel road, yet in reality was fully paved. He also suggested that there were minimal hills. The route indeed was far less hilly than our planned route, but was persistent in multiple sections of 6-7% grade uphill, and a lengthy 8-9% grade section at the beginning and end of the new route. We were quite pleased to have done this alternative route, since it took us by some absolutely spectacular scenery, like Omak Lake.

We eventually ended up at nightfall quite exhausted but looking at the Grand Coulee Dam. We stayed in a motel that faced the dam.

The next day was 61 miles and another 5000 feet of climbing. From the photo below, the intuition would remark at how flat the terrain was, yet, on a bicycle, it was quite rolling hills, with lots of 6% grade climbing. We were still moderately tired from the previous day, which made it harder to do even simple hills.

Our last memorable scene was from the Columbia plateau, getting ready to descend down to the Columbia River. In the distance, you could see Lake Chelan and the town of Chelan. It was a 8-12% grade descent for about 5 miles. Awesome! I’d sure hate to come up that hill on a loaded touring bike!

5. Future– so much has gone by. A niece, Laura, won a beauty pageant.

Laura, we are so proud of you. It takes not only beauty but true talent and skill to get to Teen Colleyville.  Thankfully, you didn’t have to have uncles dying in the car and brothers spazzing out on you to get into your contest, like in Little Miss Sunshine. We had old friends from many moons ago, Aaron and Anita visit us. They remain quite special. I especially appreciate being able to do outdoor things with Aaron. We plan on seeing Jonny off to Belize for the summer, and perhaps longer, to visit and study with Uncle Dennis. Dennis has been doing well, as is attested by this recent photograph…

Once he gets out of jail and quits playing with poisonwood, he’ll be back to his old self, I’m sure. Dennis is not really in jail; he is just showing us the miracles of Photoshop. I’d really like to visit Dennis some day. Belize is looking increasingly appealing, especially with our Destroyer-in-Chief Obaminator as el Presidente ruining all that we count as precious in our country. He will go down with Woodrow Wilson and FDR as the worst presidents ever of the USA.

I hope to do a few more cycle tours this summer. I also plan on spending the month of June in Bangladesh, and will be in Germany for the last 2 weeks of August, if all works well. More blogs will follow. I haven’t had many book or movie reviews since I’m listening to 2 lengthy Brahms compendiums, which I wish to review together, watching a lengthy tv series with Betsky, and reading a very large and ponderous book. So, more blogs will be in the works in the future. Meanwhile, please stay in touch.

Final Days in Cameroon

November 23rd, 2009

08NOV2009 The photo below shows  the Lutheran church in town, one week ago. It is a much smaller church that the one in Meskine that we usually attend. We did appreciate the service quite a bit, though it was a touch more formal than the other church.

Yesterday I took a bicycle ride from the hospital up to the mountains. This was done with Carsten and Scott. We took off at 6 am, rode for two hours, and went nearly 20 miles. It was over dirt road, and so mountain bikes were imperative.

I think the natives were more puzzled about us than we were about them. You can see their standard home structure, with a cluster of Boukarous and mud walls enclosing the village.

The Meskine missionaries invited a priest from the Anglican church to come give meetings for four days.  He was heavily influenced by the teaching of the Toronto Blessing, which is an form of Pentecostalism. There were many “words from the Lord” and talk about healings. Some basic doctrines of the faith, such as the doctrines of Christology, were brought into question. My feeling was that though the missionaries wished for “revival”, a revival of emotions without revival of the primacy of God’s word is doomed to failure, frustration, and a worse end than if nothing at all occurred. You are left momentarily with the haunting notion that maybe there is a form of Christian faith, a technique or belief structure, that will magically transform you into somebody that can heal on command, read minds, and hear God directly. Unfortunately, there is no magic, but there are the Scriptures, with God speaking about as plainly as imaginable. So, our doubts about missing a “higher blessing” are relieved by knowing that attendance to God’s word alone gives the highest blessing.

That evening everybody went out to dinner, and we had sauerkraut. It wasn’t the best sauerkraut that I’ve ever had.

Today, we attended the main church in Meskine, partially skipping out of the healings and words from the Lord. It is quite a dramatic event, and so I include a short portion of video. The natives here are excellent musicians, and Betsy and I both enjoyed native African beats with Christian songs.

MVI_2014

There is general singing, mostly in Fulfulde, but also in French. Then, various sub-groups will get up to sing in their particular dialect. When it came to the time for us Western folk to sing, it was just Carsten’s family and Betsy and I, so we had Betsy sing “Amazing Grace” as a solo. It was well received. Sermons and more singing occurred. The entire service lasts 2.5-3 hours. As you can see, the worship is quite animated, and there is more body movement than in Western churches (except for the Pentecostals, of course!).

13NOV09 Time is quickly coming to an end. Having felt light-headed soon after arrival in Cameroon, I solved matters by cutting my blood pressure medicine in half. I am already on the lowest dose possible, so now I am just about taking naturopathic doses the last 4 weeks. I measured my blood pressure during the stress of a busy surgical day, and it was 100/60. I am beginning to draw further conclusions as to the probable cause and treatment of my hypertension. I just wonder what my weight and cholesterol levels are doing. We are preparing for a trip to Roumsiki with the Kretzschmar family this weekend. It is a small resort town located on the Cameroun/Nigerian border. There are supposed to be some interesting volcanic formations, and it is known as one of the more beautiful parts of the country. Though it is only 80 miles at most away, it will take us about 4-5 hours to get there, since the road is anything but ideal. More on that later.

I showed up at the operating room this morning, and the techs invited me into their own room for brunch. They were sitting around a bowl of what they called “soup”, and sticks of French bread, which they would break off, dunk in the soup, and then eat. It was quite spicy, and tasted great. I suddenly realized what had occurred at the Lord’s supper, as I joined into the common pot.

The brunch was served with Cameroon tea, which was quite sweet, and tasted just like lal cha from Bangladesh. That will be one of my more memorable experiences, and it really touched me that the techs would honor me like what they did, inviting me to join with them.

17NOV09 We have just returned with the Kretzschmars from Roumsiki, one of the few resort towns of Cameroon.

It actually was very nice. We stayed at a resort that is maintained by a Swiss man and a native Cameroonian lady. The resort has the comforts of a typical Western hotel, including a swimming pool.

The area is known for its volcanic granite rock formations, that are seen throughout the horizon.

We took a hike one day down into the valley enclosed by these formations, and actually entered Nigeria. The path, though steep, is heavily traveled by donkeys bearing large loads of goods from Nigeria, as well as ladies carrying massive volumes on their heads.

The donkeys are essentially the Cameroonian equivalent of large transport trucks. We were also able to step foot into Nigeria. Here is Betsy and I in Nigeria.

The next day, Carsten and I tried to climb Roum, which is the mountain around which the town is made. He did okay, but I was slipping too much from poor shoes, and decided to opt out of the very last few hundred feet. This the mountain to which the Kapsiki speaking people escaped to from the Muslim terrorists-I mean, invaders. You can see caves where they hid out.

We later went to visit a house of an animist. Each of his many wives has their own home, while he has the biggest, close to where the goats are kept.

Afterwards, we realized that Betsy was having a high temperature, and quickly realized that she was having a bout of malaria, so got her going on Co-Artem.

The ride home was a little difficult with sick Betsy and sick children, since, if you look at a map, it looks like a major thoroughfare, but in actuality, it is dirt road of the worst possible condition.

Diane, if you are reading right now, look closely, as it’s not a cow nor a horse, but a donkey.

19NOV09

Over the last few days in Meskine, the morning temperature has dropped as low as 73ºF, and many people, nationals and ex-pats alike, are wearing heavy jackets and wool hats. Babies are bundled in extra sets of thick clothing. It has become very cold for people accustomed to living in 110ºF weather.

Last night, I did prayer rounds with Martin, one of the evangelists at the hospital. 6/8 people we prayed for were Christian. It is amazing how many Christians are in this mostly Muslim area. The missionaries and many of the native Christians will make rounds on every hospital patient each Tuesday evening, and that has been an interesting way for me to see the patients in a totally different light from that as a physician. It is especially delightful to be able to spend time with the Natives. My pre-conceived conception of them as being a tad bit primitive, living in mud huts, etc., is entirely wrong, and I am amazed at their wit, intelligence, and awareness of world events. Most people have cell phones. Most Natives speak at least two languages, many as much as 4-5 languages fluently. It is not loin-cloth jungle savages barely commanding what lays a few yards beyond their existence.

23NOV09 We are finally home, with a moderate case of jet-lag. Yet, we are thankful to see family, and to touch base with our home and surroundings, while sustaining good health. I now have a laundry list of chores to do before I go back to work on 07DEC. Before then, I’ll probably publish some reflections on the past year, which will go unannounced by e-mail. So, stay in touch.

Crazy Days in Cameroon

November 4th, 2009

21OCT2009 – Please also read “First Days in Cameroon”. I tried publishing blog updates from Cameroon, and it would not go through, so, the trip to Cameroon will be a series of several blogs. The above photo shows Sadjo and Carsten in the OR. Sadjo is Muslim, though a most friendly person, and most intelligent. He was one of the first employees at the hospital, brought in when he was a young man, and trying to earn a living as a tailor. He now spends most of his time sewing people.

Today, I did a oophorectomy/hysterectomy on the Pyles cat. This was performed in the quiet of their back porch, using Ketamine as the anesthesia, and Kalabasoo helping with the surgery. It was a bit floundering, but the cat seemed to survive our ordeal. At 1700, Carsten dropped by for our first bicycle ride. He rode out into the fields surrounding Meskine, noting that cotton and Millet were the main crops. Both seemed to be doing well. There are mountains surrounding Meskine, and several have large monkey populations. Our hope is to have a little more time to ride further. Since it gets dark at 1800, we were limited to about 20 km ride today. You must use mountain bikes, since the roads are dirt, and are not in terribly good shape.

I am still doing a lot of operating, and fortunately, able to give Carsten a break more often. This has been good for him. We have also been discussing ways to help Meskine get back into general orthopedics, like bringing the SIGN-nail to Meskine. This is an intramedullary nail that you run down the middle of a long bone in order to stabilize a fracture. They are then able to return to function much quicker. Carsten has been absolutely delightful to be around, and we have been able to work well together. I think that I need to learn better German in order to communicate with him and my other German relatives and friends.

On 23OCT, I did a D&C, today a cystolithotomy (removing a stone from the urinary bladder), as well as herniae repair and abscess drainage. The types of surgery seem to be rapidly expanding. It has been an enjoyable experience in the OR. I am still frustrated by the inability to perfectly communicate with Carsten, but fortunately, he is moderately patient. Simple things are easy, but when trying to describe precise details of an operation or procedure, I don’t have the vocabulary in either French or German to adequately communicate.

27OCT, no changes. It rained yesterday, and the temperature fell to 80ºF. It was the first night here where we slept without the air conditioner running. I’m working feverishly on my French, so that I may communicate a little better.

30OCT, our time seems to be winding down. This AM, I went to the hospital 15 minute prayer service, opening with the songs “How Great Thou Art”, and “To God be the Glory”, in French of course. It was interesting to see how joyful the Africans were, in that they could not even sit down to sing these songs. They tend to be far more animated than Western folk. I compare that to the woeful sound of the call to prayer heard 4-5 times/day over loudspeakers in the village mosque next to the hospital grounds. Islam is such a sad religion compared to Christianity. Later, Scott Pyles and I went to do a reading to a young Muslim man showing some interest in the faith. This is similar to a reading that Betsy went to a week ago, where a missionary will go to a Muslim house, and will have bible stories, that they will read. In this instance, it was a bible story of the tabernacle in the wilderness, written in Arabic script, but using the Fulani language. All in all, it was a very pleasant experience.

The bottom photo shows some of the students of the person we went to read to. They learn to read and write by writing the Koran out on a large wooden board, which they are displaying. Once they have one page memorized, they erase the board, and put on the next page. This person lived in a one room house, inside a large compound of about a city block, housing several hundred people, including 90 some children, many barnyard animals and goats. His wife had just had a child, and the tradition is for the wife to stay with her mother for forty days after the first child, in order to learn how to raise the child.

Diane, it’s not a cow! It’s a goat!

Though missionaries may be chided for trying to “sell” religion, I would remind the dear reader that coercion or force is never used by the Christians like the Muslims, as many Muslims would readily convert if the societal pressure and intimidation was not so great. Also, the missionaries are almost always the first to form languages for remote peoples, and to teach them how to read and write. Contrary to M. Mead who would love to “preserve” ancient cultures, those ancient cultures all desperately wish to move into the 20th century like the rest of mankind, and Islam, unlike Christianity, is doing absolutely nothing to assist in mankind trying to improve their lot. I show a child trying to learn the Koran. Though many children might recite the Koran in Arabic, they have no clue as to what it says or means, as they do not understand Arabic. It would be like Christians insisting that one recite the Scriptures in Latin in order to find favor with God. Fortunately, our God is multi-lingual.

03NOV09 Today, I turned into a Urologist. We had a patient whom was thought to have a vesico-vaginal fistula. We could not find the fistula by instilling blue dye in her bladder, but noted serious urinary incontinence. So, we happened to have some bladder suspension kits, and I had seen it done several times, and went ahead and did it. In spite of that, we still noted a small amount of urine persistently coming into the bladder. So, I suggested we wake her up, do an IVP, and assess the problem. That would be true in the US or Europe, but not here. We proceeded to open her bladder, searched hopelessly for a fistula, but noted that there was absolutely no urine coming out of the left ureter. Again, I suggested a work-up. Sadjo suggested otherwise. We opened her up,  and found a markedly dilated left ureter, and much scarring surrounding the most distal ureter. So, our decision was to simply re-implant the left ureter into the bladder. This we did in a standard fashion, Sadjo paying close attention, since he will not only repeat the surgery someday, but probably do it better next time. It’s quite incredible working with these guys. As mentioned above, Sadjo was nothing but an ambitious young tailor, hired on for the hospital 17 years ago, fluent in Fulfulde, French, English, Arabic, and some German, now in his mid-forties, owning a large cattle ranch, working evening in the tailor business, as well as pursuing his love for surgery. He and Barbar are a total joy to work with.

The weather is cooler now. It was only 85ºF last night, which now seems cool to us. This time of year, winds from the north commence, causing a red dust to fill the atmosphere. The surrounding mountains no longer appear crisp, but a blurry red. This causes the temperature to cool down, but also leaves dust everywhere. I now remain a touch more congested, and am constantly sneezing from the irritation of the dust.

Just a little mention of all those who have made our stay memorable.

Sadjo and Barbar are the two main techs. Sadjo is Muslim, Barbar Christian, and totally opposite personalities, Sadjo being quiet and thoughtful, Barbar expressive and impulsive, alway saying “Ah cha cha”.

Tijani and Walko, quiet workers, Tijani’s uncle is chief of the village, and Walko is a tech that does much of the minor things in the operating room, as well as much of the anesthesia.

Saido,Roger and Falkamo also do anesthesia. It is usually spinal (rachidienne) or ketamine. All are absolutely superb. They can also do general intubation, but the OR is not well set up for that.

Vadera and Wome also do a lot of the minor activities like wound debridements and rapproachments (wound closures).

So now I turn to the missionaries that we have met. We loved all of them. Each one has become special to us in their own way. So, let’s start with Scott and Lee. They, along with Danny and Frances, started this place. It was their vision and hard work that led to the founding of Hopital de Meskine, and it continually shows. Scott is responsible for the main leadership, and possesses an uncanny sense of wit and humor about him. He is always able to break a tense situation with a word or comment that leaves a smile on others. Lee is amazingly hard working, and keeps everything in the surgery end of things running well.

So now I turn to the missionaries that we have met. We loved all of them. Each one has become special to us in their own way. So, let’s start with Scott and Lee. They, along with Danny and Frances, started this place. It was their vision and hard work that led to the founding of Hopital de Meskine, and it continually shows. Scott is responsible for the main leadership, and possesses an uncanny sense of wit and humor about him. He is always able to break a tense situation with a word or comment that leaves a smile on others. Lee is amazingly hard working, and keeps everything in the surgery end of things running well.

David and Patsy have been most special. David runs the informatics side of things, and keeps communications going. They are more quiet workers, but always possess a gentle loving spirit. Their hospitality will always be remembered. One day, Betsy was commenting on her bad back, and the next day, David dropped by a special chair that was very comfortable on her back. That really touched us, just the caring for little things in another person’s life.

Andrew and Kari have had two young adopted children to care for and so we have not had the opportunity to get to know them nearly as well as the other missionaries. They are also a bit newer, and so are working on learning the languages and becoming effective on the mission.

Carsten, Annette, and their children Rabea, Lucas, and Aaron (here, shown with Betsy and Marike in Roumsiki) have become quite well known to us. I have spoken more about Carsten in other places, since I have been working with him in surgery, but their entire family remains special. Carsten and Annette grew up in the former DDR in Leipzig. He and Annette are both very musically enclined, and he happens to like Bach, which makes them very much true friends. I truly hope to visit them in August in Leipzig, if the Lord wills.

Carsten and Annette have a young German girl named Marike (here shown with Rabea) from Baden-Württemberg helping out with teaching the children, and also working in the hospital, since she would like to eventually go into Medicine. She has been very special to us, since she has been able to help us better converse with Carsten and Annette, since she is fluent in German, French, and English. Her maturity and love for the Lord has been especially noticed by us.

Me with Josephine, Melissa with Aisha, Sarah, Kari and Ruth. Josephine is a general practitioner from the Netherlands, Melissa a short-termer from Louisiana, and Sarah a PA from Michigan. I’ve not had much of a chance to interact with Josephine, but have really appreciated getting to know her. She very sweet, is fluent in Dutch, German, English, French, as well as Fulfulde, and also a superb, caring doctor. I don’t know how she does it. Sarah has been wonderful to have. She is a real take-charge person, very industrious, and very capable in the tasks she has at the hospital. She rarely makes bad decisions, and has been a joy to work with. Kari is a physical therapist, whom I haven’t had the ability to get to know well. I appreciate her sweet temperament, as well as her loving demeanor around natives and patients. We had just gotten to know Ruth, who is working mostly in Chad, and quite fluent in Arabic.

First Days in Cameroon

October 17th, 2009

Betsy and I left home on 26SEPT. Dr. King took us to the airport, and we flew out on Air France to Paris, with an eight hour stopover and then on to N’dJemena, Chad. Adama picked us up at the airport, and drove us to the guest house, that had not quite prepared for our arrival. We made do, and was able leave by road to Meskine the next day, driven by Adama. The roads had multiple large potholes, yet Adama still drove at roughly 60-80 mph, the exact speed not known since the speedometer constantly read “0”.  One of our four boxes had not arrived, though we were assured that it would be in in several days, and promptly delivered to us. On 30SEPT, I started working in the OR. It is much different than in Bangladesh, in that the surgeon does very little ward care, but spends most of his time in the OR suite, or seeing consults. It will take me a few days to get used to things. The workers all speak a little English, and I spent much of my time speaking German with the other Surgeon, Carsten, who is from Leipzig.

02OCT, our final box arrived, missing only a few items, such as clorox wipes, which we can survive without. Surgery has been busy, with a few very odd cases. One was a 12 yo boy, gored by a bull, coming in several days later (how many, we don’t know), and his only injury was a complete division of his common bile duct. We did a Roux-en-Y reconstruction, but he died later that night. There are too many other cases to talk about, and I’m sure you’re not interested, so, we’ll let it slide.

10OCT, we had a fairly busy week at the hospital, but able to relax on the weekend. All is going well. I haven’t taken too many photographs, and I am not getting out of the compound too often. The US State Dept. informed us of a cholera epidemic in town, though we will still to go in to eat tonight. It is a bit harder than Bangladesh to acclimatize to the heat, and I’m not sure exactly why. Otherwise, save for a bout of travelers’ diarrhea which resolved quickly in both Betsy and myself, all is going well.  A few days later, we spent with Carsten and Annette on the river flowing through Moroua. This river is now just a stream, but will fill its banks at some times of the year, and in a month, will be completely dry.

The main church in Meskine has about 100 adult members, and though church starts at 8 o’clock and lasts until 10:30 AM, most people arrive between 8 and 9 am, filtering in slowly, and sitting with their own people group. The various groups are then invited sequentially to sing a song for the remainder of the folk, including a time for us white people, who usually sing in French some hymn.

Notice, the Christmas decorations remain, like in Bangladesh. Our house is quite nice, and here are some photos.

Yes. The bed has mosquito netting. No mosquito bites at night. The main crop in this area is Millet, which looks a bit like corn.

Firewood also is in huge demand, as they prefer firewood over natural gas, even though firewood is more expensive than gas!  Getting photos in the community has been a serious problem, because, unlike Bangladesh where everybody fought to have you take their photo, the natives will turn and run if you get out your camera. Both situations below witnessed this happen…

Here is the whole missionary group at Annette’s birthday party, with real ice cream made from powdered milk!!!! …

We’re having a good time, and feeling like we are contributing a bit to the entire effort. More to follow…

P.S. Aren’t you glad I didn’t include any political discussion. Though we’ve stayed in touch with American and World news, and watched the Stalk Market (sic!) and price of gold fluctuate, it seems a touch removed from us, where our patients simply are wondering if they will have food for the next day. We have much to be thankful for, in spite of our national distresses. The next few years are going to be time to re-think the real battles that face us, and hopefully they are not simply battles for peace, security, and prosperity, as the end result will probably be the opposite of what we seek. Fortunately, Betsy and I have had time to read and think (see Bookblog) and talk, and it has helped in keeping us on track together about our goals for the coming few years, as I return to work.

Adventures with Russ and Jon

September 3rd, 2009

Dates 28,29AUG- Mowich, Wonderland Trail Attempt, 31AUG-02SEPT Century Drive, Crater Lake Loop Success

I had planned on 9 days to do the Wonderland loop, starting at Mowich Lake. All looked good at the start. . .

Unfortunately, it started to rain the first night, and we were rather wet by the second day. After lengthy and careful consideration, realizing that the rain was not going to let up, we decided to abandon ship.

Otherwise, we would have never seen the mountain, even when the weather let up a bit. Therefore, we headed home, and decided to do some cycle riding. We decided to do a loop around Mt. Batchelor (Century Loop) as well as a ride I failed last year, from Diamond Lake around Crater Lake, and back to Diamond Lake. The weather was fantastic for both rides. The first (Century Drive) was 54 miles, but only 764 ft. elevation gain. In spite of that, I wasn’t feeling the best the few days before, and seemed to be killed by the hills.

Thus, I was quite worried about the Crater Lake loop, which is nothing but climbing. We drove down to Diamond Lake, and camped there. The next day, we attacked with vigor. I didn’t think I was going to make it, but took up a slow pace, and five hours later, 64 miles, and 6000 ft. elevation gain, arrived back at Diamond Lake with bit grins on our faces. It was wonderful being able to finally complete the loop.

 

My bike again did a fantastic job of keeping us going. Traffic was light, and we met only one other rider, a retired school teacher from Phoenix, AZ with a titanium bicycle. He was getting some end-of-season riding in. Sounds like a great thing to do in retirement. This ride around Crater Lake is a classic that I wouldn’t mind repeating from time to time.

 

Fahrraden im Himmel

August 16th, 2009

The big event of the last few weeks has been the class I took in bicycle touring. It was sponsored by the Adventure Cycling Association (http://www.adventurecycling.org/ ) and lasted for 5-½ days, including a day of instruction, and four days on the road. The riding was really very simple, with very short days, and lots of eating, but the camaraderie was delightful, getting to know a number of very interesting people.  It was also instructive to be with other people to learn in a safe environment how to really do distance cycle touring. It is like driving a Freightliner truck as compared to the Ferrari of Gelbvögel (yellow bird). I find that I can easily mix photography with riding, and will be using the handlebar bag mostly as a camera bag. I need to figure out how to bring along my tripod in order to obtain crisper photographs, plus photographs that include everybody including the photographer in the group. My panniers were always half empty, so, I think I can devise a way to get a tripod on board. I’ve become addicted to my Canon XSi camera. I use  18-55 mm and 55-250 mm lenses, as well as an accessory flash. It is tough lugging that stuff along, but it is worth it. While I learn more about digital photography, I’ve realized the importance of taking primarily RAW photos. I did that on this trip in the RAW+jpeg format, and neither iPhoto, Photoshop, nor Aperture were able to properly handle this format. While experimenting all possible variants, I learned that I need to photograph in the Adobe RGB colorspace, and should only take RAW photos without the jpeg, as all three of the above programs will immediately convert the RAW files to .tif files once I edit them, saving the original .cr2 (raw) file. So, I get the best of all worlds, except that I need to edit all of my photos. All three programs will convert the photo to any size jpeg file that I wish for publishing on the internet or sending to friends and fiends.

Someday, I’d like to be the first person to do “The Box” in one setting, assuming it has not been done already, which is both the Pacific and Atlantic coast, combined with the Southern and Northern Tier routes. It can be done, probably starting from home on the Pacific coast in February, hitting the Southern Tier in March/April, the Atlantic Coast in May/June, and the Northern Tier in July/August/Sept. My guess is that by traveling light (except for my camera), I could average 80-100 miles/day, and still include 1 day/week for rest.

 

Thus says the Lord:

“Keep justice, and do righteousness, for soon my salvation will come,

and my deliverance be revealed.

Blessed is the man who … keeps the Sabbath, not profaning it,

and keeps his hand from doing any evil.” Isa. 56:1,2

 

That assumes that Betsy will start riding, or that I can talk some looney tune into coming with me. I’d do it alone, but Betsy would throw a fit. But, I need to think short-term first, perhaps doing the Rainier loop next week, and the Washington Parks loop in mid-September. I’m running out of time. My most formidable task that remains is in getting my dear wife to take up cycling, as it would do her much good, and get her away from the house, doing useful activities. I also need to do some bicycle modifications, including revising my front racks, since I cannot remove my front wheel because of the racks. It would make fixing a front flat very difficult.

On another note, I have included the ability to make comments on my other blog pages, including the book, movie, and music blogs. If you have read any of those books, heard any of that music, or saw those movies, please feel free to comment. Also, I welcome comments on the other blogs, including if you have done any of the bike trips that I have done, or hikes, or adventures. And, if you say something really stupid or offensive, I will hold nothing against you that I don’t already hold against you. Also, if you are new to this site, don’t panic! The German that I use is for my Deutsche Freunden. The title means “Bicycling in Heaven”. If anybody receives blog announcements and doesn’t wish to, please e-mail me and I’ll take you off the list.

On yet another note, the countdown until 14DEC at 0700 when I formally restart work…

 

Adventure Cycling Introductory Course

August 15th, 2009

Adventure Cycling Intro to Cycle Touring  09-14AUG2009 ?????

The rating is not intended to rank this ride with the other rides that I have done, but simply to make note that as a course, it deserved five stars. We met in a park just outside of Eugene, and then have 1.5 days of instruction in how to do cycle touring. On 11AUG, we all drove to the Eugene airport, hopped on our cycles, and headed in one giant loop, down to the beach, and back and forth across the Coast range. All in all, it was very negotiable, with quite easy riding, save for a bit of sweat making it up the hill on the first day.

Here we are getting together on the first day. Much of the event was centered around eating, and one of the first chores was to eat. It was fajitas the first day…

 

Then, there were hours of instruction by our fearless professorin, Joyce, with eager students paying close attention…

 

We learned how to pack our bicycles, with Joyce showing us her personal inventory.

 

Here’s our route

Finally, we’re all together and ready to ride…

 

Not even an hour into the ride, we were already stopping for something to eat…

 

I didn’t take any photographs of the hill on the first day. It was the hardest. Here are the first troopers, arriving on the other side of the hill….

Ben  takes a firm command of the road

The General eager for a  break after Heartbreak Hill

Instructor Pete in good form

The Doc not sure where the hill was

 

At the end of the day, our tents went up, and we ate again. The camp host was a little grouchy, so we had to be real nice… Here is Q, happy to be camping, and ready to prepare his garbanzo bean salad…

 

The next day, we hit the beach…

The Doc

The General

 

Sabrina rolls in a bit later, followed by Nancy and Joyce…

 

We learned how to wash our stinky clothes…

 

and had a chance to watch the sunset…

 

The General is off for another day of riding. The ride along the coast through the Cape Perpetua Recreational area from Waldport to Florence was most stunning, and far better appreciated on a bicycle than in a car.

 

We stopped at Mo’s in Florence to eat. You might notice that the only photos are of Pat (the General) and myself. That is because we were a touch ahead of everybody else for most of the trip. The last day, we let Ben lead, and he took off like a jackrabbit.

Heil Hitler??????

 

Here is tent city, the last day. We went out to eat at Franks.

Frank

You might notice that last photo shows some poor soul we found who was starving, so decided to feed him. He was quite happy afterwards! After a misty breakfast and Lisa getting her obligatory coffee, we were off again, today, re-crossing the coast range to back home…

 

 

 

Ben and Ken

Even instructors get happy on summits

Ben and Pat trying to hold up a logging truck

Happy climbers

The ending… here are the four dudes, responsible for setting the pace, and making sure the road was clear for the rest of the cyclists.

 

What did I learn? Joyce would ask if we learned anything. Ja wohl! I learned that I really like bicycle touring. I’m ready to do it again, asap! I learned a lot of do’s and don’ts. It nicer to learn in a group, than out totally on your own. And, Adventure Cycle Association does an awesome job of putting things together for such a venture. My only complaint about the trip is that there is too much emphasis on food. When I am out camping, I like to leave the food as a minimal activity, and not as a major center of activity. Thus, it would have been nice to not have to have somebody preoccupied with the next day’s meals.

Get on their website and sign up for a tour. Loose a little blubber. See the world in a fashion much nicer than in an automobile. Have the time of your life.

 

Total stats for this ride…

10AUG 10 miles, 500 cal, 200 ft ascent, 40 minutes

11AUG 49.4 miles, 3427 cal, 1432 ft ascent 4:10 minutes

12AUG 37.2 miles, 2602 cal, 787 ft ascent, 3:10 minutes

13AUG 46.4 miles 2940 cal, 1288 ft ascent, 3:50 minutes

14AUG 53.6 miles 3500 cal, 1420 ft. ascent, 4:40 minutes

Total  196.6 miles 12969 cal, 5127 ft ascent  15:50 minutes pedaling

 

 

01-03AUG Courage Classic

August 3rd, 2009

I reported on this ride last year, so will save on lengthy details. This time, Jonathan Kamke rode with me, and that was a pleasure.

He was the entertainment committee. The photo shows him at the summit of Snoqualmie Pass. This year, the weather was considerably hotter than last year, and so really worked on pushing it a little harder. All of the passes seemed to be a bit easier this year, with no need to stop and rest, save for the scheduled rest stops, which tended to overfeed us. We made sure we had early starts in order to beat the heat each day. Yet, it was rough even hanging around the campsite doing nothing in 90 degree plus weather. We were among the first ten each day to finish, and so were able to pick nice campsites, but still could not beat the heat.

Here I am on top of Blewett and Steven’s Pass. I don’t look tired, do I? Well, I could have kept going both times. The little Yellow Bird was totally delightful to be riding on.

 

Seattle Century 2009

July 27th, 2009

The Seattle Century is put on by the same group that does the Portland Century, Oregon Bike. This is a ride through Seattle and around the east suburbs. It was actually only a total of 94 miles, but that still counts as a century. The weather was hot, in the 80’s, but we even got a touch of welcome rain. The ride was done with Jamin King, as well as Russ & Luc Andersen. Unfortunately, there were no photographs taken, even though I brought my camera. I need to slow down at times, and flash some pictures, since we did some nice views.

 

This century was a little bit problematic because 1) Seattle & Washington streets were in much worse shape than Oregon streets. Even the Burke-Gilman trail was quite awful, with lots of tree root bumps on the trail. I’m a little bit disappointed with the city of Seattle.  2) The route was not well marked, and we made frequent wrong turns, only to discover the error of our ways. It was not unusual to see riders re-tracing their route, to get back on the designated pathway.  3) The published route and the actual route were a touch different. The actual route was really better, with less futile looping around like was done in previous years.  Still, there were multiple turns all the way through the ride, making it a bit confusing. This century was nice because 1) You were very well fed at the rest stops, including the final stop on the route, and 2) It had a moderate amount of hilliness, giving you a good workout at the end of 94 miles. We did the entire trip in well under 6 hours, and at an energy expenditure of roughly 5600 calories, only 1.4 lbs. of fat. Yikes! You need to ride a lot to loose 10 lbs. of fat!

 

The only problem that I had on this ride was that I was a bit sore from a backpack trip, the first of the season, done the last two days before the Seattle Century. It didn’t help that the weather was hot. Still it was an enjoyable ride. In comparison with the Portland Century, the roads were better, there were better hills, the stops were better, and the route was very clearly marked with no obscure turns. I would have no problem repeating the Portland Century, but probably not the Seattle Century.

 

Eagle Creek 23-24JULY2009

July 27th, 2009

This must be my 15th time up Eagle Creek, as it is definitely one of my favorite easy hikes. It was the very first backpack trip I’ve ever done, which almost led to calamity. At that time, when I was about 15 years old, this trail seemed to be a challenging tour de force, demanding only the bravest and the best. Since then, I have brought young kids up the trail, and usually hiked to 7 1/2 mile camp in under 3 hours. The trail is spectacular, much of it created with dynamite. There are multiple waterfalls, the most photogenic being the punchbowl (above) at 2.5 miles in. The most impressive is tunnel falls, at about 6.5 miles in…

You can see how the trail walks behind the falls through a tunnel. It remains truly spectacular. There is also high bridge and low bridge

The first photo above is looking down the very steep canyon wall while on high bridge, at the rushing river.

Here I am with Russ Andersen and Jonathan. Unfortunately, Luc had to take the photo.  All in all, the trip brought back many memories, and because of no physical problems or blisters, made me anxious for more aggressive endeavors this summer.

 

Seattle to Portland One day

July 12th, 2009

This was my second STP, and we decided to do it in one day. It is a double century, with a distance of 202.5 miles. Fourteen hours after a start at 5 am, Luc and I crossed the finish line, still going rather strong.

Here are beginning and ending photos….

 

I rode my yellow bird, which held up wonderfully. I got no back pain nor neck pain, and the pain in my butt was more a chafing than pain from sitting on the saddle for 13 hours with only short breaks. The STP was sunny but cooler this year than last. It also seemed to have less hills. I didn’t understand that, except that I might have gotten a bit stronger on the hills. Luc was still awesome, setting the pace the entire distance. He is really a strong cyclist. Russ did well, but 160 miles into our venture, was having some crampy abdominal pain which made it miserable for him. All of this means that we will have to do it again next year, because I want to see Russ cross the finish line in style. He has better cycle strength than me, so it should not be a problem for him.

 

Cayuse/Chinook Pass

June 26th, 2009

26JUN2009, Starting from Mather Parkway, 62 miles, 5600 feet elevation gain, 4 hours, with Russ and Luc Andersen. The weather was absolutely gorgeous, and visibility of the mountain 100%. We couldn’t have picked a better day. It was the debut of my Steelman bicycle, and it was everything I expected; it handled well, the gearing was superb, and the ride comfortable. The only problem that I had was a terrible seat. Fortunately, the seat was on trial, so I am trying out another seat for my next ride. We are getting ready for a one-day STP, and getting as much riding in as possible. Stay in touch.

 

Flying Wheels 2009

June 13th, 2009

I am now trying to prepare for the STP in one day, and so am doing a number of rides. This was my first century of the year, which was a little concerning for me, since I had had a 3 month interlude off of the bicycle while we were in Bangladesh. It felt good to be back on a cycle. The entire event was notable for the hills hitting me a little harder than my last ride, the absence of flats, and that I cut at least an hour off of my riding time, feeling a moderate amount of energy at the conclusion of the ride. Thus, it was a good ride, all in all. Meanwhile, I continue to ride with Russ and Luc anderson, who truly are superb cyclists, learning much about endurance and techniques for better riding.

4-7JUN Trail Skills College, Dee

June 8th, 2009

I needed to take a trip to Portland since I had just purchased a new Apple computer, and had it delivered to Gaylon. Lew seemed to be tied up, and Karen and Steve were in town, but too busy to get together. Delores had invited us to her restaurant in Wilsonville, so, we decided to go. Delores is a cousin, and she married a Moroccan man, whose mom taught Delores how to cook Moroccan. She had asked us many times to come down, but now I finally had the opportunity. This was an absolute feast. I had no clue that mid-eastern food could taste so good, but Dee made it especially well. She gave us a sampling of many items, from appetizers, to her lentil soup, to the main meal (I had lamb with a raisin sauce), and then dessert. It was absolutely unbelievably good. Dee gets 10 stars for incredible cooking. Most of the food was very nutritiously cooked, such as the vegetarian couscous, which tasted like no couscous that I have ever eaten before, but also very spicy, using similar spices to that of Bangladesh. All in all, it was a most sumptuous feast. Thank you, Delores and Abdellah!

I spent the night at Gaylon’s, hooking up an old Airport, and also connecting a hard drive to his Mac Mini. The next day was off to trail college. I was a little doubtful, almost wondering if I should skip out and head home. I slept out in my tent, and relaxed for several days. The first day, we went out to a portion of the Pacific Crest Trail, and studied trail maintenance, including how to provide trail rain runoff, so that the trail doesn’t become a highway of a grand mudpuddle. We also learned about how to condition a trail, using McLeod’s and Pulaskis. It was a rainy day, we were all soaked and muddy at the end of the day. The next day was lectures in the morning, and then we went up onto a recently built trail. At first, it looked fairly good, until we began to realize that there were multiple design mistakes. We talked about designing a proper trail, using proper construction techniques to maintain a solid trail base, so that the trail would manage rain water without becoming a mud puddle, and spent time actually punching out a hypothetical new trail. It was a blast. I will forever have a much greater appreciation for trails, and will never look on a trail the same way ever again, knowing how badly a trail could thoughtlessly be constructed.

 

Iowa 28-31 MAY 2009

June 1st, 2009

The trip to Iowa was a whirlwind, intended to accomplish two purposes. First was for me to meet Rachel’s boyfriend, and the second was to touch base with Diane. Here we are having lunch at Culver’s, where Diane used to work. We also met Diane’s boyfriend, and saw her at work.

Diane seems to enjoy work greatly. We met Alex’s family, including his parents…

I think he has the world’s largest hands. Here is his next to mine. His parents and siblings were totally delightful. It was a pleasure meeting them.

 

Bangladesh 16MAR-19MAY MCH-1

May 24th, 2009

The flight to Bangladesh was incredibly long, with a stop first in New York City, then in Doha, Qatar, and finally to Dhaka, Bangladesh.

We then took a flight down from Dhaka to Chittagong, where we were picked up by our friends Stephen and Stephanie Kelley.

 

After a brief stop for lunch in Chittagong, we were on our way to Malumghat Hospital, with a first stop at Moonshine, the equivalent of Costco in Chittagong.

Because we were doped out on sleeping pills to reset our clocks, we remember only a few aspects of this part of our venture. The weather was warm but only mildly muggy. Here are some views of our guest house and the scenes immediately around it.

Betsy and I were soon jumping into  helping at the hospital. It is totally amazing to see the variety and intensity of cases occurring. The general surgeons are performing all of the Urology and Orthopedic cases, including rodding femur fractures, doing TURPs, etc., etc. They are also doing some chemotherapy, and I will be working with the nursing staff at establishing a serious chemotherapy program, while helping them to decide what the best and safest cases for chemotherapy would be. I am quite happy for the training that I received in Chicago, and never thought that my moments writing chemotherapy orders with Linda Wild would ever come useful in the future. Well, it is.

 

Betsy and I are both having a daily language lesson. I love Bengali! Nomoskar! Kaemon achen? Ami bhalo achi. Eckon jay. Pore dekha hObe. The natives are friendly, and while very poor as compared to Amerikans, are rich in spirit. Betsy and I have so far not had too much time to get out into the neighboring villages. Last Saturday 21.MAR2009, I took a motorcycle ride up into the Chittagong Hills Tract. This is just east of the hospital, and sitting between us and Myanmar. It is very rugged country, with lots of rubber tree plantations, and banana plantations.

You are not allowed to go far into the Hills without passing checkpoints. Fortunately, the lead person we were with (Dr. Kelley) was able to explain that we were only going in for tea. This we did, stopping in a cafeteria, that by Western standards would be described as filthy beyond belief. Yet, when you order tea, it is boiled and thus safe. They drink a hot milk tea, which I have not gotten used to, and so usually will drink lal cha (red tea) with a teen-kon-shomasa, which is a small triangular pastry, with a very spicy curry filling in the middle. Again, since these are baked, they are safe, even though they are from restaurants beyond belief in filth.

 

The weeks are a bit unusual. Friday is the Muslim holy day, so, Friday and Saturday are the week-end. Friday is the usual day for Muslim and Christian church services, and Saturday is a day like our Saturday. We would attend the Friday AM church in Chittagong, which was all in Bangla.

Notice how sandals are taken off outside a building. Sunday is a work-day. Clinic is on Sunday and Thursday, and Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday are operative days. The OR’s are nicer than what we had in Jamaica, but still a touch below average standards in the USA. It is common to loose electricity at least 3-5 times a day, usually while operating, which is one of the only reasons we typically wear battery powered head-lamps. The lights go off. The work goes on.

 

26MAR2009 Today is Bangladesh Independence Day. I worked in the hospital, and then went on a motorcycle ride with Stephen Kelley up into the Chittagong Hills. Afterwards, the hospital threw a large feast for the hospital employees, about 300 people showing up. This was a mixture of expatriate nurses, doctors, and other missionaries, along with a large component of natives. Goat curry, fish and rice were served. It was excellent. Traditional meals are not eaten with a fork or spoon, but with your hands. It is just a little too odd, eating curried rice with your fingers–it’s exactly what we were taught not to do.

 

 

31MAR2009 Today, we went to a Bangladeshi funeral. One of the beloved orthopedic techs, Lawrence Halder passed away unexpectedly early in life, possibly due to mismanagement in Dhaka of a simple eye problem. He had a son and daughter. Funerals occur within 1-2 days of death, as they have no embalming or means of corpse preservation. Lawrence was buried in his back yard, next to his brother and father. The funeral was late at night, since they were waiting for various people to first arrive in town. He was laid in a simple pine box and placed six feet under. It was quite emotional, with family showing a great  amount of wailing.

Unfortunately, in this culture, there is no welfare or social security, and the death of a father can be a serious tragedy in life, his in children in college, and wife with limited earning potential. There was recently one young pregnant lady brought in by her Muslim husband in eclampsia, seizing, and required a c-section for infant delivery. A girl was delivered. The husband promptly abandoned her and was nowhere to be found. The reasons? 1) A c-section means that all other children will require c-sections, which is expensive in Bangladesh. 2) There will be a large hospital bill. 3) An infant girl has absolutely no economic value, since a dowry must be paid to marry her off, and she will have no means of supporting the family. When people speak of how wonderful the Muslim religion is, I just consider the terrible absence of value held for the females in that society, where cows or goats are of more value than females.

 

03APRIL2009 Friday is the equivalent to Sunday in America, which is the day where people either go to church or to Mosque. Saturday is the free day, and Sunday is a usual work day. This coming Sunday is Palm Sunday, and next Sunday is Easter, which are also taken off by Christians as holiday in Bangladesh. Today, we went to the Bengali church, and then afterwards went over to the house Dhirjidon, our language teacher.

He had invited us in for tea and rice pudding, both of which are very good, though I don’t really care for the milk-tea that they drink. They live in a mud-house, but is fairly nice by Bengali standards. They have gardens outside their house, and are attempting to grow some banana trees and mango trees. Dhirjidon has two young daughters and a fairly young wife (long story, but not typical for Bangladesh). They are all very proper, for instance, when you enter their house, they bow, and then touch both your feet. The house kitchen and toilet are out behind the house. It makes sense doing that. Their life is very hard, and family life is completely dependent on the male being able to work. This is why they wish for sons, who could support the family when the parents get too old to work.

 

04APRIL2009 – Boat trip – I wish it was a boat trip down the Rhein, but such was not to be. No Lorelei, no castles, no good German beer. Oh well! We had a great time all the same. Uttam was our connection to some native fishermen. We went out in their wooden boat, powered by a diesel motor, built in Shanghai.

We had to wait for the tide to come in, then walked the plank onto the boat. We saw some people doing a boat repair on shore- the Bangladeshi version of the Krupp-Thiessen boatworks in Hamburg. We then puttered down the river to the farm of a friend of Uttams’. He had multiple shrimp ponds, as well as a salt refinery. We watched them catching shrimp, and one of the men went off for some bird hunting with his shotgun. We had some drinks in the raised hut, which was actually very cool and comfortable. Baba (father) lived out on the farm, keeping an eye out for poachers, which are many. Finally, we climbed back on the boat, and headed back home as the sun was setting.

02MAY09 Several days ago I performed a c-section with Dr. John, and everything went well. Post-operatively, the patient would not stop vaginal bleeding. We took her back to the OR and found an atonic uterus filled with clot. After multiple attempts to stop the bleeding, I finally ended up doing a supracervical hysterectomy. She did well, though she lost quite a bit of blood. Tonight, at 1 am, I was again called to do a c-section on a breech delivery. It went well, but with the anxiety of the complication of my last c-section.

 

Please proceed to Bangladesh -2 & -3. This blog was broken down into three sections to facilitate easier downloading.

 

Bangladesh 16MAR-19MAY MCH-2

May 23rd, 2009

06APRIL2009 – Market visit – Today, Dirjidhon took us on a walk through the market. It was market day, and all the vendors had their vegetables, fruit, chal (uncooked rice), and halud (a yellow spice) out for sale. The only thing that really grossed me out was the fish, some live, and some smoked. These markets are fairly popular, and do provide fresh produce on a regular basis. It also allows the poorest of folk to market their goods.

10APRIL2009 – Today, Dr. Kelley and I were working in the OR, and we discovered that some of our instruments were stripped. We desperately needed several bolt drivers reground, and so called up the maintenance man, Les C, who is spending two years with his wife in Malumghat. We had him scrub in and identify the exact problem, while I scrubbed out to snap photos.

12APRIL2009 -  Easter Sunday, we went to church. The church in Chabigong (where Memorial Christian Hospital is located) is the second or first largest Christian church in the nation of Bangladesh. It was packed. The choir sang first. The service started at 6:30AM, though half the people didn’t show up until 7:00. This is typical of Bangladesh. I had to leave 1/2 way through the service to go round at the hospital. That evening, the mission workers all had a potluck and easter service. It is of note that though Bangladesh is very strongly Muslim, the hospital has been effective at reaching out to  the Muslims and Hindus in this area, as well as the tribal people in the hills, offering them a joy and hope that is missing in the prevailing religions of the land. There is a sense of absence of joy, of death, of gloom, seen on every street corner and in every Mosque and Hindu temple. Then you go into the Christian church, where many young people and elderly alike are happy, joyful, praising God with a giant smile on their face. It was contagious.  We brought with us one of our patients, a Hindu diabetic female, whose husband left her, and required a below-knee amputation by me. It was her first glimpse of hope. Many of these ladies would tend to go home and commit suicide, as life outside of Christ had nothing to offer. The Hindu teacher would not criticize the husband and agree with the wife. The Christian is able to find meaning and community even in tragedy and suffering.

 

14APRIL2009 – Shubho Nobo Borsho (Happy New Year) – today was a regular day at the hospital, but they held a special lunch and other celebrations, since today was the Bengali New Year. For morning tea, someone brought us in a Bengali treat, which was the rice equivalent of popcorn. It was a little like puffed rice, but tasted much better. Then there was another type of popped rice, made by heating sand up to very high temperatures, and then throwing chal (uncooked rice) onto the sand and letting it pop. I have seen so many incredible new foods, that are also reasonably healthy for you, that I suggested that a Bengali restaurant open up in the Northwest. Unfortunately, I’m not sure it would sell well.

 

16-18APRIL2009 – It’s raining. Reportedly, a cyclone is coming through. Cool. It will be our first cyclone. We shouldn’t be hit with the brunt of the storm, so nobody is evacuating, but it is raining quite hard. Today, Dr. Kelley was working on advancing the renewal project, and was out running a chainsaw in order to remove trees, so that ground preparations could begin for the new hospital. Surgeon Lumberjack Steve worked feverishly with “Doc” Collins to take a number of trees down. As he was sawing through one trunk, he realized that somebody had climbed the tree, and that he was still up in the tree! Wild. 17APR – on call, doing massive amounts of Ob. I’m learning how to manage a 22 week pregnancy with vaginal bleeding, we presume is either placenta previa or abruptio placenta. Suddenly, I need to read massive amounts of basic obstetric literature. It continues to rain cats and dogs. This evening, we have started to get very forceful winds. The cell phone connections no longer work, and power lines are down. We drove into the hospital to board up all the windows, and to check on the sicker patients. On the way back to the guest house, power lines were across the road, causing us to have to walk the rest of the way back home. Unfortunately, photographs were impossible. Maybe tomorrow…   18APR – The brunt of the storm was expected to hit us today, but actually ended up hitting us last night. Today, there was no rain, but debris and power lines everywhere. By noon, most everything was cleaned up. The cattle were eating the downed leaves, and villagers gathering the downed wood to sell as firewood. Unfortunately, the internet remains down for now. I’m on call for the hospital the last few days. Saturday is a usual day off, so only emergencies come in. I had to start a central line on a 4 yo child (actually, older, but size of a 4 yo) and then calculate out chemotherapy doses, as he is being treated for Burkitt’s lymphoma, and the first doses weren’t quite right.

Rounds on 30+ patients. Rice poisoning patient came in this afternoon, oxygen sats. of 70%. He died. Two Ob patients bleeding, demanding me to relearn Ob. I recheck the child getting chemo, and all the hospital patients. It’s quiet. All the hospital missionaries were invited over to Lucky’s house for dinner. Just awesome. Bhat ar dhal (rice and dhal), quite spicy, with vegetables, chicken and shrimp. Khub tasty (very tasty). Also, quite spicy. We ate it with our hands (no spoons or forks). It would be almost an insult to ask for an eating utensil. Back home, we hear a motorcycle drive up. It’s another rice poisoning. Rice poisoning is quite common here. They are not poisoned by rice. They eat the insecticides, which are organophospates, and come in with dilated pupils and a racing pulse. Supposedly, it is usually a suicide attempt. We do our best. I think this person will make it. Much of the hospital is run by techs that are trained in highly specific things. We are now training a young male tech to give chemo. Other techs in outpatient department are very good at managing rice poisoning, and many of the problems that come in. Usually, there isn’t much that us doc’s need to do except to check the techs and make sure they aren’t messing up when something unusual comes in. There is a diabetic with heart disease, and her blood sugar is 57. I tell the tech to give her some sugar by mouth, and he brings in a vial of Calcium. Remember, many of these techs have never seen college, and I have no idea if they’ve even made it through high school. It’s now 11:20 at night. I was called in to see a 52 yo tribal lady (which means she’s come many miles to see us). She fell off of a baby taxi this morning, landing on her head. She was okay until she went in to get a forehead laceration sewn up. They used a large silk to repair the wound (a no-no), and also gave her an injection of who-knows-what. She became semi-conscious since then. I can’t find anything on her that suggests a bleed or serious brain injury, so admitted her for observation. This lady is an example of how there is a moderate amount of health care in Bangladesh, some of it in very nice facilities, but the care is very often detrimental to health. I thought American health care was bad! When brother Dennis tells me how terrible the American Health care system is, I’ll tell him to go to Bangladesh to get treated there the next time he needs a doctor! We spend much of our time rescuing people from injuries induced by the local “professional” or local alternative care providers. Unfortunately, even though care is much better in Dhaka or Kolkota (Calcutta), mortality rates are still prohibitively high as compared to the US and other western countries. It’s now raining out, and I have only my bicycle and a climbing headlamp to ride 1/2 mile home in the dark. All I could think about is how I wished I had a CT scanner. Anybody care to donate for a used CT machine?

 

 

19APR09 – Today was a busy clinic, seeing many unusual cases. The worst was a 7 yo child from southwest Bangladesh who was flown in by a charity organization for care. She had phocomelia, with absolutely no arms. Her right leg was also just a stump. She was able to write by picking up a pen with her toes and writing. Both her hips showed hip dislocation, not being treated right at birth. We needed to explore options with her. I had never seen a case of phocomelia, and had never seen an old case of bilateral hip dislocation from birth, since they are always treated in the US before the problem becomes irreversible. She was the most cheerful child. Some charitable institution in the US apparently heard of this poor girl, and (correctly) realized that Dr. Kelley was probably the best surgeon in Bangladesh to handle this problem. Result? An e-mail to the world’s expert in unusual orthopedics, Dr. Bullock, who was the orthopedist at Malumghat Hospital for many years. There may not be much that we could do, and the charitable institution will have spent a whole lot of money for little gain. I am learning that indiscrete altruism may placate a conscience, but result in mostly wasted sweat and funds.

 

20APR09 – Thomas Kühn – I was running through clinic yesterday, and here comes a white guy. Strange. He was bringing a child to the hospital for repair of contractures of a burnt hand. Thomas grew up in east Germany, migrated to the west before the downfall of the Wall, and developed a heart for missions. He met his wife from Rapid City, South Dakota in Germany, was married, and moved to Chittagong to run an orphanage. They have 3 children, and about 62 kids in their orphanage. I will save a lengthy discussion of Thomas, but felt a strong kinship from our first encounters. Please visit his website athttp://www.holbangladesh.com see what he is doing in Bangladesh. He brought in one of his orphan children, who received an insect bite to his hand many years ago, and through a series of serious mishaps using local medical lore techniques, the hand went from bad to worse. He lost three and 1/2 fingers, and the wrist went 180 degrees extended. We started a two stage reconstruction, today releasing the skin, and flexing the hand as far as it would go, with transfer of unused third digit extensor tendon to a taught second digit extensor tendon. We will now weight out the hand in order to get it straight, and then go back and skin graft a large vacant area.

21APR09 – I did a 40 yo male with a large left retroperitoneal tumor. It was about 18 cm diameter, and highly vascular, thus, a very tedious dissection. We needed to transfuse blood. In order to do that, relatives come in with the same blood type and donate at the moment the blood is needed. It is then given straight to the patient as whole blood. It works well, and you don’t need the units and units of blood that you might require if you were giving component blood. The patient did well, with 1500 cc blood loss, but with 2 units of transfusion.

 

23APR09 – Today, we ran up to Chokoria to go shopping. Dr. Lattin, Dr. Welch, and myself purchased our first lungis. What is a lungi? It’s what all the natives wear, and virtually everybody in Bangladesh owns at least one lungi. It looks a little bit like a dress, but is the most versatile piece of cloth that a person could ever wear. Lungis would typically be considered by the elite as casual wear, so that we would never wear our lungi into the hospital. But sitting around the house, or working in the back yard, it’s the most comfortable thing one could ever own.

I also wanted a Fotua, which is like a Neru shirt, but couldn’t find a short sleeve one that I liked. So, oh well, Uttam said that I could get one in Cox’s Bazar this Saturday. The Mayor of Cox’s Bazar was at the hospital today, and he invited me to come visit him. His wife was in the pregnancy care. He is Muslim, and there are large hospitals in Cox’s Bazar, but people from all over Bangladesh that have the money prefer the care at Malumghat Christian Hospital. So, we are often operating on somewhat wealthy people coming down from Dhaka. The mayor was running around on his Honda motorcycle, with his father-in-law and brother-in-law sitting behind him. I wish I could have gotten a picture.

 

24-25APR09 – Uttam Mollick, Cox’s Bazar. The 24th was Friday, which is the day they have off from the hospital, and is celebrated like western Christians would celebrate Sunday, with church, and going over to people’s houses, etc. We went over to Uttam’s house, and was served a meal that was like top Ramen with an egg in, but very spicy. It was quite good. Uttam will be taking us on our trip to Cox’s Bazar tomorrow.  So, we meet Uttam at 7 in the morning, and hop on one of the public busses. This is a bus with people on the roof and hanging out the door. We go to Ramu, to visit a friend of Uttam, whom he calls the professor. She teaches biology lab in the college, and her husband is an IT man in Dhakha.

They serve us breakfast. She has a newborn baby. Even though she is Buddhist, and Malumghat Christian Hospital is many miles away, many of the elite (like the Cox’s mayor above) with go to MCH for their delivery, since it is the only place around where doctors actually make an appearance, and things are to be trusted. We then visited several Buddhist temples, including a very large temple, where Buddha actually lived and some of his bones are buried there.

Every day they placed out food for a very hungry Buddha, who refused to eat it. The tree is where Buddha used to meditate. The monk on the left is actually taking Bible classes at MCH.  Next to the temple was an orphanage that was built by the Italians. The children were all girls, and very polite and cute, all of them knowing a moderate amount of English. After that, we went back to the professor where they served us lunch, and then hopped a bus to Cox’s Bazar. I bought several more lungis, as well as several fatuas, and Betsy bought some gifts, so, we are set to return home. We stopped to walk the beach, which is the longest sandy beach in the world, 70 miles long.

The ride home was in darkness on the public bus. Though I don’t have photos, we stopped on the way for someone to load several crates of chickens onto the roof, then climbed on top to hold them down for the trip to Chittagong. It was a tremendous time with Uttam, especially since he is able to give us a real Bangladesh experience, and not just a tourist view of the country.

 

07MAY09 The Mangos and Lychees were ripening on the trees. I had no interest in either of those fruits in the US, as they both tasted rather disgusting. But, tree ripened mangos and lychees are the most incredibly tasty, delightful fruit you could ever savor. We finished clinic a touch early, so Jason (Dr. Lattin) suggest we grab the bucket truck and go lychee picking. The problem is, the ripe lychees and mangos are quite high up in the tree, as they ripen from the top down. The natives simply run up to trees with their bare feet and lungis pulled up, and pick the top fruit. That, by the way, creates many of the fractures we see at the hospital. The bucket truck, like you would see being used by the electric companies to repair power lines, was our perfect solution. We found a ripening lychee tree in from of the Archibalds’ house, so pulled the truck off under the tree.

We did have a problem starting the truck, requiring a jump. I went up first and got a large bucket of lychees. We then moved the truck, and Jason went up with his young 3 year old son, Nathan. Once he got half way up, two events occurred. First, the motor to the bucket stopped. Minutes later, a belt on the truck motor disintegrates. Then, we discover there is no safety release to the bucket hydraulics. So, we grab a rope, and Jason lets Nathan down, followed by him climbing down the rope hand over hand. The lychees were awesome, sweet, succulent, slightly tarty.

 

 

Please proceed to Bangladesh -3!

 

Bangladesh 16MAR-19MAY MCH-3

May 22nd, 2009

Please also read Bangladesh -1 & -2 first…

 

08MAY09- Medical Trip into the Chittagong Hills Tract. I was invited to go along for a medical trip into one of the trips deep into the Chittagong Hills. My ID doc warned me to absolutely do not go into the Chittagong Hills, as there are dangerous diseases. So, off we go. The plan was to go to a tribe which was completely removed from civilization, and truly, they ended up at the literal end of the road. We drove for four hours. First, we went through a check-point that most westerners are not allowed to pass. Since our group was favorable to the government and going for medical reasons, they let us through.

We then had to stop in the town of Lama to obtain the presence of armed escorts–the Bengalis are always afraid of insurgency. We proceeded on, first on paved road, then very bad, very narrow paved road, then dirt road beyond comprehension, and then we arrived at a river, across which the village of our destination stood. Almost nobody spoke Bangla, so we had to use two translators, the first to go from English to Bangla, and the second to go from Bangla to their tribal tongue.

 

We set up several stations to examine patients, and saw over 110 patients. We did stop for lunch. Most to patients had vague symptoms, such as abdominal pain for years, or knee pain, but we did see some real pathology. Almost all the kids have helminthic diseases, and so lots of anti-worm medicine was given. The main economic revenue was from growing tobacco, which we could see in various stages of processing. The photos also show us having lunch (quite tasty), and important crop, tobacco, that the Brits are pushing on the Bengalis. Nancie also gave mid-wife lessons, and a little kid demonstrated that the birth-control pundits had already come through (those were not balloons). Also, note what the ladies have in their ears … large bells, plus flowers, plus, rolled up taka notes. This was a sign of affluence. All in all, this was a once-in-a-lifetime experience that few Westerners could ever imagine experiencing.

 

09MAY09- Safari Park  There is a “zoo” about 2 km south of Chabigang, which is a large open Safari that animal are kept in mostly natural surroundings. A relative of the head of the OR at MCH (Satindra, or Shoti) is an assistant to the veterinarian at the Park, so, we are able to get in for free and ride on the roof of our vehicle around the park. The Bengal tigers could be seen, but we moderately concealed, and thus could not be photographed. Also, there were numerous monkeys all over the park, some in cages, and some outside.

The top attraction was the ability to ride an elephant. They aren’t very comfortable, bareback. At the end, the zookeeper had a refreshment prepared for us, which is a coconut with a small square cut in it, and straw inserted for drinking the coconut water. Coconut water grows on you, and is totally perfect when you are extremely thirsty for quenching your thirst.

By the way, this sign was NOT in the zoo. Elephant crossings can be quite damaging to automobiles, especially on the main interstate, as this road is.

11MAY09 – A ferocious windstorm occurred this morning, requiring maintenance to turn off all the generators. This meant doing rounds at the hospital with backpacking headlamps, and in total darkness. The electricity goes off quite frequently, about 10-12 times a day, usually only for 15-90 seconds, though it could occasionally last longer. It is quite often to be operating and the electricity goes off, because not only do the lights go off, but the electrocautery and everything else goes off.

 

13MAY09- I did my first c-section under local and ketamine, with Dr. John. Kind of a freeky experience. We couldn’t give the mom a spinal as she was being a bit too theatrical. She had cervical-pelvic disproportion (the nurse mid-wives figure that out), and we needed to get the baby out. The baby boy had a bit of meconium, but did well. It’s a nice technique to know how to do, as you must get the baby out before the ketamine gets to it.

 

15-17MAY09- The evening of 15MAY, Uttam invited me to speak with a group of young men and women which get together regularly at church. The topic was unity. I spoke to them mostly about the need for love, moral purity, and delight in getting together with fellow believers. The next day, Les and Deb Collins headed out with me and Betsy to Chittagong. We flew into Chittagong, but we were so dopy, we didn’t remember much of it. On the 16th, I went shopping to get a few more lungis for all the people who asked me for one, including Onkel Herbert and Hannes. I also picked up a load of spices. This area (BD) of greater India was the source for most of the spices of Europe, and we were able to take home many bags of the best spices, as well as one of our favorite treats, Chanachur, which is this hot, spicy finger treat you eat, sort of like the Pub Mix that you would get at Costco, but much tastier, and less fattening. We settled in at the Chittagong Guest House, then, Betsy and I had the honor of meeting Jim and MaryLou Long. Jim is the general director of ABWE in our area, and MaryLou was the director of the William Carey Academy. Both of them had the sweetest and most attractive personalities.

The next day, Betsy and I toured the William Carey Academy. It is a grade K-12 school, and probably among the top several best schools in BD. Thus, many of the wealthier families send their children to this academy. It has a mix of Muslim and Christian students, and provides an avenue for the missionaries to approach the Muslims in Chittagong. Next to the school is the free academy, also run by the ABWE, but for the hopelessly poor children in Chittagong. It is with deepest regret that Peni H. was gone, and that we could not tour the free school. Lunch is served every day, and children are given an education they would otherwise never get in BD. After this, we did some more shopping, stopped at Moonshine for groceries, where a local beggar girl always gets a nutritious piece of candy from one of us.

Driving to and from Chittagong is another matter. The map shows no towns. That is because it is practically continuous town. It was ceaseless mayhem. If one didn’t have a strong constitution, they would get a heart attack in 5 minutes on the road. It is 10 times worse than Jamaica, and 100 times worse than NYC. Chittagong has about 5 million people, yet we saw only one traffic light, which everybody ignored. Combine that with innumerable rickshaws and baby taxis, and you end up with pure mayhem. It is surprising we were able to get anywhere. For food, on the 16th, we had lunch at Bonanza, which serves BD national food. It is distinct from Thai, Chinese or Indian food, and unbelievably good. Why BD food hasn’t made it in the USA is a mystery to me. The next day, we had lunch at Pizza Hut. The pizza was not greasy, and tasted quite good. We were pleasantly surprised by the quality of food in Chittagong. Then, there is Chanachur. It is the most awesome snack in the world; sweet, devilishly hot, low fat, wonderful to eat. Pick some up, if you find it anywhere.

 

18MAY09- The Operating room threw a good-bye party for us. We smiled a lot, but our hearts were in tears. Betsy and I will truly miss the many people, ex-pat and national, that we have met here. Many people have asked us if they could pray for us, as we return to America. We ask now, that you would specifically ask God to bring us back to Bangladesh.

19-20MAY09- The Trip Home. We actually left the night of 18MAY on the night bus, Green Line. It was a top-class bus, but a bottom-class road. The inability to sleep on busses and the insane way people drive in Bangladesh led to a very restless night. It was only by God’s grace that we arrived in Dhaka, now so tired, that when we got to the Baptist guest house, we had breakfast and collapsed, sleeping all day. For devotional reading that day, our Psalm was 65. Please read it. It was a perfect description of Bangladesh. First, it suggested that our only hope was in the Lord, which is true though rejected by most Bengalis. Then, it spoke about how the Lord makes the earth bring forth massive abundance for us. This was true in every small village, and in the large cities. Everywhere you looked, you would see rickshaws to large trucks laden with fruits, vegetables, and other edible produce, or animal for market. The fruit variety was tremendous, including things I’ve never heard of, but the mangos, papaya, bananas, watermelon, Jackfruit, cucumbers, coconuts, and many other products were quite abundant. We will always remember Psalm 65 as our Bengali Psalm. That evening, we had an even more insane drive to the airport, with the driver acting though he was possessed of the devil. The airport was rather quiet. I found another Bengali cookbook which also had English and purchased it. It was a reflection of the superb food we had gotten in Bangladesh. I would have thought that the food would have been rather unremarkable, but it was everything but that. Even when we ate in the distant tribal village, the food was quite excellent. It is very spicy, again, reflective that Bangladesh was the area of India where most of the spices in the past centuries originated. It is no wonder that Bangladeshi cooking demands multiple complex spices. I purchased a number of packages of spice, but realized from the cookbook that there were many others that I could have picked up, in order to make an original meal. The cookbook also calls for many types of rice. In Bangladesh, so Dr. Kelley tells me, there are at least thirty types of rice, each a bit different from the others. I have never seen the type of rice that we typically ate in Bangladesh here in the US. Even the way they cook it is slightly different as there are flecks of spice seen in the rice (I hope that they weren’t actually insects that got into the rice!) There was even a black rice, that is often used for dessert. There is a type of rice that smells (and tastes?) like excrement. Most the rice types we had were quite good, but were of a non-sticky variety. They would never eat the rice plain, but mix in the halud (yellow) seasoning sauce with their hand, making a sticky ball that they then could eat with their fingers. I’d really like a copy of the recipes, but could not find them. Meanwhile, back at the airport… There were a huge number of young men in the aiport, together with large groups all wearing a similar piece of clothing. These were men going to Arabic countries for work. We forget that the largest export of Bangladesh is human workers. The flight to Doha went well, and we arrived in Doha at 11:30 pm, and due back at the airport at 6:00 am, so we cancelled our hotel and slept a few hours in the airport. It felt good getting on the airplane, at last to set foot on US soil. Except for a minor hassle where a female angry official at the baggage screen confiscated some of my AA batteries (Gottlosen Schwein!), we got on ok.

 

Trip People that we have met… I especially am overwhelmed by my friend Steve, a man who has earned the favor of God and man, and blessed beyond measure. He is the most multi-talented person I have ever met, skilled in broad aspects of surgery and medicine, deft in the Bengali language, brilliant as an administrator, and single-minded in his Christian faith. I have never met a more brilliant, multi-tasking, innovative person in my life. As an example, one of our patients had the port catheter break off and lodge in the right atrium. There was not a single procedural radiologist in the country that had ever retrieved such a catheter. So Steve did it in the OR. The snare would not grasp it properly, so he sterilized a colonoscopic grasper, ran it up the vein, and successfully retrieved the catheter. I was amazed. He and his family will remain forever in our fondest memories of an example of true giants.

Nancie is one of the most faithful nurses I have ever met, blessed with multi-talented skills as a nurse, but also a sense of honesty of encounter and practical saintliness that would offer any of the greatest saints a hard run for first in the kingdom. She would never fit the Hollywood image of a saint. She is the opposite of Mother Theresa. Dynamic, spunky, speaks her mind, no display of fake religiosity. Yet, as you get to know her, you realize that every drop of blood in her is of the sincerest Christian love. She oozes Christ. I’d vote for Nancy over Mother Theresa any day for “sainthood”. Yet, she can do anything and everything, including run anesthesia, pass chemotherapy, resuscitate babies and run a neonatal ICU, organize field medical clinics, and I’m sure I’m missing many other things. I have never met a nurse ever as competent as her in so many things, and yet so sweet and loving as a person. Equal with Nancy are the other nurses with whom I have developed the deepest appreciation, including Mary, Ruth, and Gail. Mary was the quiet but competent counterpart to Nancy. They lived (sort of) together, and richly complemented each other in personality, talent, and sweetness. Also, hyper-competent beyond any nurse I’ve ever met in the US, Mary never seemed to complain, but always maintained a delightful joyful countenance that exuded genuine concern for everybody she interacted with. All the nurses deserve a similar commendation for their selfless devotion to the mission, yet I realize that whatever I say will be matched infinitely greater by the God whom we give ourselves.

Nathan the holy man – I first met Nathan, when I was trying to resolve Mac connection problems. I have encountered one other MAC user besides Nathan, leaving only three Mac users in the entire country of Bangladesh. Real men use Macs. (Actually, real women also use Macs). Nathan finished a year of language study in Chittagong, and is now honing his language skills, especially the Chittagonian dialect, by living with the natives in the village, in one their mud houses. He is a very bright but soft-spoken character. Last Good Friday he preached his first sermon to a small church south of here, said entirely in Bengali, and yet stirring a number of Muslims to ask him for a Bible to learn more about the Christian faith. His dedication and concern for the Bengali people is monumental.

As time went on, there were many others that we had gotten to know. Need I mention Frank and Alvis, quiet, honest, truly caring people, faithfully giving of themselves for the mission here, leaving a successful practice in Nebraska to serve Christ in Bangladesh.

Or Harold and Shaun, who we see jogging by the guest house every morning, always reflecting a tremendous joy, and infectious enthusiasm for working with the people of Bangladesh.

Bob and Chrissy had lived and studied in Tacoma, and happened to know friends of ours at the Tacoma Baptist School system; they had two children, and Bob had returned to Malumghat where he grew up. Oddly, their home church was in central Illinois, and that they were quite acquainted with the people from the denomination of our youth. We were reminded of what a small world it was.

Bob and Chrissy were wonderful, in that their demeanor immediately put you at ease – none of this “hey we are life-time missionaries and holier than thou” attitude, but people that had genuine love for the Bengali people and willing the sacrifice most of the conveniences of Amerika to serve here. There are a number of other people I could mention with similar acclaim. A close “soul-mate” was Jason, whose presence made our entire stay a great joy. He was like Onkel Herbert in providing a wonderful stimulus for thought, he and his wife having  thought processes that leave me wondering if we were not brothers separated early in life. Clinically, I’ve not seen a better surgeon than him who is just a few years out of practice, competent, cautious, making excellent decisions, yet quite skilled in the OR.  A quote from his ex-professor and a dear friend of mine, JV, stated  “Jason-he was my favorite Chief resident last year (yes, he just graduated a year ago). A very mature guy and he and his wife are committed to third world surgery. Wow.””

There was Steve and Monika, arriving after we did, and here for a two year stent, yet always cheerful and enthusiastic in the work at the hospital. Steve and Monika and their kids were a total pleasure to get to know. I wish that we could have had more time getting to know this couple.

It is with trepidation that I stop here, since virtually every ex-pat Missionary that I met at Malumghat deserves a lengthy comment, and the ones mentioned had all been served an injustice by the brevity of my comments. Among all these people,, it would trivialize matters to say that they are giving their time for the gospel and for the people of Bangladesh. They are not not giving their time. They are giving of their lives.  It is a different spirit that I could see driving them, a Spirit far greater than our own personal spirit. May God richly bless them in this life and the life to come. We came to Bangladesh hoping to bring a small blessing to those working out here, and instead, Betsy and I received the greater blessing from them.

 

I should comment on a few of the Nationals that Betsy and I go to know.  Many times, one of the Nationals employed in the hospital would drop me a small note thanking us for coming out, with no mention of any desire for something in return. There was Dr. John, a tribal native of the Tripura tribe (!), now a surgery resident at MCH. John was a total joy to work with, offering a wonderful educational exchange, both of us learning off of each other as we cared and instructed each other on the wards, in the clinics, and in surgery.

Then there was the administrative assistant Uttam, a bit younger, always happy, grateful for his position, always wanting to chat about America or about the Christian faith. Here he is with Betsy, singing on the beach.

There was Lucky, an older single tribal person, who one day had all the ex-pats over for dinner. He works in the hospital store, being “lucky” since he gets an air conditioner in his office. He is a total joy to see every day. The people of Bangladesh tend to be very relaxed, and definitely not time watchers. That can be a touch frustrating, as an 8:00 o’clock meeting typically means 8:30 or so. They have been a joy to serve in spite of the nuances of their character.

 

I hope that in the upcoming month, I will be able to touch base with my American (and German) friends to show the photos of our trip. Photos are woefully inadequate to convey the actual character of our trip. It misses the smells, the tastes, the touch, the breadth and depth of the real experience of Bangladesh.

 

14, 26, 28FEB2009 Skiing

February 28th, 2009

Jonny and I went cross-country skiing twice together. The first was up to Snoqualmie Pass, on a groomed trail, for about 14 miles.

The second was into Reflection Lake on Mt. Rainier, much of the way through steep forest with about 18 inches of powder snow. This made the possibility of easy skiing quite difficult, and only once we got to the road were we able to get some speed to our skiing. The snow was quite soft, but also very cold, which meant that it balled up underneath our skis, making the going quite difficult. Both photos were showing Reflection Lake.

On 26FEB, Dale R. and I did something that I never tried before, which was night downhill skiing. This was accomplished at Snoqualmie Pass, and was a rather pleasant venture. Photographs were impossible.

 

21FEB2009 South Prairie from Home, 35 miles

February 21st, 2009

This is my first ride of the season. I just got back my Element, which I’m turning into a touring bike. They installed new gears on the bike, to facilitate a better touring experience. I thought I’d give the bike a spin. It is definitely heavier than by Trionfo, and the fatter tires make for a touch more resistance, but otherwise, the bike worked well. The greatest difficulty is the last 3 miles, which has hills (Bellmonte Dr.) up to about 14% grade. The bike handled well, even though I was just a slight bit tired. I followed the Orting trail, but once I get past Orting, I get off the standard trail and onto a back road that is considerably more hilly, but also more scenic. I’m ready for more. I’ll soon have to take my Trionfo off of the trainer and get some better distance rides in.

 

 

 

Deutschland 03JAN-07FEB1009 – Goethe Institut

February 8th, 2009

This trip is summarized in multiple blog pages, and so no additional entry will be made here. Yes, we visited the town of Feucht!

And, we visited the Thomas Kirche, where Johann S. Bach’s bones are also buried. And, I met the most awesome couple in the region of Franken, Hannes and Katja. Plus, it was so nice spending time with Herbert (Dr. H. Feucht). Just makes me want to go back!!!!!

 

San Antonio, TX 10-14DEC2008 – San Antonio Breast Cancer Symposium

December 16th, 2008

This is my second time to the SABCS, the last being about 3 years ago. It is heavily medical oncology oriented, without too much for the surgical oncologist. Never-the-less, I did find the basic science lectures interesting. The clinical medical oncology portion was somewhat dreadful, with lengthy discussions over the value of differing treatment options that might be statistically significant, but have such close survival curves that they remain of overall insignificance. Dr. Liao managed to make it, and it was interesting to have his interaction from a medical oncology perspective as to clinical options. Since Dr. Liao is also an M.D., Ph.D., he seems to understand completely my rantings about the stupid studies and research that is being performed so commonly in the war against breast cancer.  I did learn some practical things for clinical application, so the meeting wasn’t entirely worthless. Other activities included walking the river-walk, and eating Tex-Mex food.

We went to all the lectures, and were attentive, falling asleep only when appropriate.

As you can see, Dr. Liao attempted to catch every word that was spoken, hoping that in some sentence the cure for breast cancer would be inadvertently be dropped on us. We missed the cure this year, and will have to wait until next year.

The River-walk was decorated for Christmas, and many of the boats were loaded with Christmas carolers singing as the boats went down the river.

The last thing that we did was to go remember the Alamo. We remembered to remember.

 

Ka’anapali, Maui 31OCT-06NOV 2008 – Wilderness Medical Society Conference

November 9th, 2008

This was trip number two to Maui, this time staying in the Lahaina area at the Westin Hotel. Our first trip was ten years ago, with three of the children (Sarah was in Great Britain) and we stayed in Wailea. The last trip was with the Pierce County Medical Society, of which I am no longer a member, and this trip was with the Wilderness Medical Society. Much of the extra-curricular classes with the conference were Scuba related, though I did not bring my scuba gear, or even my flippers. If fact, this is the first beach trip where I never sat out on the beach in the sun nor got in the water. Too bad. I was able to get a moderate amount of reading done, as well as resting up. Our last day was relatively free, and so we decided to see some of the sites of Maui. First, we drove to the top of Haleakala, which is the 10,023 foot tall mountain on the main portion of Maui. It is still an active volcano, a shield volcano, in contrast to the composite volcanoes that are most common in the Pacific Northwest. A shield volcano is developed mostly by lava flows, rather than the explosive eruptions of the composite volcanoes, such as what we saw with Mt. St. Helens.

 

 

The last two photos are near the summit, and then at the summit of Haleakala, and the first two are looking eastward toward Hana, from the near summit.

After getting down, we decided to visit the Iao Valley, a short hike up a creek on the eastward side of the NW peninsula of Maui. Our hotel was on the other side of the peninsula, just north of Lahaina. The odd peak that you see behind me is called the Iao Needle, which is supposed to be a phallic symbol of the natives. Hmmm….

So, here are views from our hotel….

 

 

 

The last photo is of a famous boat that was built in 1978, that traveled from Oahu to Tahiti, to prove that the Polynesians were able to do that. It was repeated several years later in the same boat, using only the guidance of the waves and stars.

Finally, I would be remiss to not include a photo of Betsy and I having a cheeseburger at Cheeseburgers in Paradise in Lahaina.

Betsy also tried to hook up with a Swiss dude in Lahaina, but things fell apart quickly, and she decided to stick with me after all.

 

06 SEPT 2008 Crater Lake Loop from Diamond Lake, 48 Miles, 5100 ft elevation gain

September 6th, 2008

My intention was to do the loop around Crater Lake. I was with son-in-law Andrew Flanagan and a long-standing friend from church in Portland, Aaron Hughes.

Andrew is enjoying a cup of tea, and Aaron showing off his fine selection of Odwalla bars.

 

Later, Aaron helped me make our favorite camping food, sauerkraut (Weinkraut aus Deutschland) with Polska Kielbasa. It’s easy to make, and tastes great when out camping. So, on to the bicycle ride. At first, we were all going to drive up to the crater rim, and then cycle the 33 odd miles around the lake, thinking that it would be a fairly flat, even ride that we could complete by noon. I met several touring cyclists, a man and wife who appeared in their late 50’s, and informed me that the ride from Diamond Lake where we were camped up to the crater rim was about 18 miles, but fairly easy to do. So, Andrew and I started out first, expecting Aaron to follow 1.5 hours later by car, cleaning up the stragglers. I made it to the rim, 19 miles and 2500 ft elevation gain just when Aaron arrived with Andrew. We then parked our car, and headed off counter-clockwise around the mountain.

 

 

We soon realized that most people did the trek, either by car or bicycle (and there were many bicyclists that we encountered), in a clockwise fashion.  About 8 miles in, Andrew was slowing down a little, so he encouraged Aaron and I to keep going, and then to pick him up in the car later once we finished. Later, Aaron was beginning to feel the hills, and decided on a slower pace. I was to also pick him up after reaching the car.

 

I wish that I could say that everything went well afterwards, but not quite. When I pulled away from Aaron, I noticed a large slash and bulge in my back tire. I knew that my tire was in serious trouble, and that I had about 12 more miles to go. I made it about 6 more miles, and then heard the tire blow out. There was a large rent in the tire, so that I knew that it was completely unfixable. Unfortunately, I was going the opposite direction of most the traffic. So, I started walking with the bike. I was a bit horrible in my bike shoes, and I completely destroyed the cleats, but I made it about 2-3 miles, where I was able to get a pick-up haul me the last 3-4 miles back to the car. I was then able to load my bicycle and go retrieve Aaron and Andrew, both who continued to make significant progress. So, it was bittersweet. The weather was beautiful, and I was feeling great, in spite of the 5000 ft + elevation gain. But, I didn’t formally complete the loop. That means that I must return some day to formally do the whole loop. It also taught me to consider carrying a complete tire with me of such trips like these, since you can fold the actual tire up into a small space to carry it.

 

Mount Rainier Rides

September 1st, 2008

30 AUG, 01 SEPT 2008 Mt Rainier Hill Rides; Eatonville Cut-off to Paradise 73 miles approx 4000 ft elevation gain; Ranger Station to Sunrise 29 miles 3000 ft elevation gain

These were very cold rides, and definitely 8-10% grade or more for greater than 10 miles, but the beauty of the rides excel that of any other in the world, especially the ride to Sunrise. The first ride, to Paradise, was a fairly steady climb for 18 miles up to the park entrance, then a gradually increasing grade, soon holding steady at 8-10% grade for the remaining 18 miles up to Paradise. The scene was most dramatic, though on Sat 20AUG the mountain was mostly covered in clouds.

 

Two days later, I did the Sunrise climb with Jonathan and Jon Kamke. The 14 miles to the top took me 1 hr 45 minutes, Jon Kamke arriving about 5-10 minutes before me, and Jonathan about 1/2 hour later. There were only scant clouds over Rainier, and so it was absolutely spectacular. It had snowed the day before, and you could find snow on the ground.

On both rides, the coldest part of the ride was the descent, which was done at a fairly fast clip, making matters all the colder. These two rides will remain among my favorites, and will be useful for short training rides before longer events.

 

Portland Century 2008

August 24th, 2008

24AUG2008 -

At last! My last scheduled ride for the year. And, in one of my favorite places, Portland, Oregon. The ride looped around the greater east Portland area, and in spots often quite familiar to me. Many of the bicycle trails were completely new to me, such as the Springwater trail, and the trail along the Columbia River. The ride was offered in 25, 50, and 100 mile versions, with the 100 mile version offering the only real hills on the ride. Of course, Lucas Anderson and I did the full Century. This was probably my hardest century, the hills being tedious but never completely undoable. There were really three serious hills, all occurring before the half-way mark of 50 miles. Interestingly, one hill that used to kill me as a kid, the ride up out of the Sandy River basin right at the end of Stark St. really wasn’t too bad at all, and we kept a 8-10 mph pace on that hill, all the way up past Mt. Hood Comm. College. Fascinating areas from places as a kid was going through the Sellwood area, riding out Johnson Creek, riding around Dabney State Park on the Sandy River, going by Blue Lake park where we used to swim as kids, riding the Columbia past the airport, and riding around U of Portland. All of these areas brought back vivid memories, but were not like I remembered them as a youngster. The total time was 7.5 hours of riding and rest. We did quite well, and my only problem was a little more severe cramping than ever. Here are photos of Lucas and myself at the half-way point, on the top of the last big hill. We really didn’t look terribly tired.

The ride was mostly downhill or flat from here, with other hills, such as the Stark St. Hill, that really were minor. All in all, Lucas and I had a great time with beautiful weather. Interestingly, coming back was terrible weather, and traffic along I-5 had slowed to <10 mph from before Chehalis to the Nisqually basin.

Training Rides

August 20th, 2008

15, 18, 20AUG2008 Training Rides; Eatonville-Comet Falls (Mt. Rainier) 72 miles, Enumclaw-White River Ranger Station turnoff 75 miles, Puyallup to South Prairie to Bonney Lake to Orting to Home 46 miles

All of these rides were moderately hilly, and the scenery was gorgeous. I can’t believe that I have the most beautiful park in the entire world in my back yard, yet I rarely ever get up to it. I’d thought about doing the RAMROD (Ride Around Mt. Rainier in One Day), held every year, but realized that these rides should be labelled RAMRWD (Ride At Mt. Rainier With Difficulty). On Saturday the 15th, we we have a heat wave, with temperatures above 90°F, something unusual for the Northwest, and creating killer heat, which left me just wasted, even though I sucked in gallons of fluid. The next Monday, I did the north side of the road around Mt. Rainier, and had the opposite problem. It started to rain, soon after I took off, and rained persistently for the whole ride. I was completely covered with road muck and soaked. My fingers were frozen, and took 2 hours to thaw out. I ran into hail at higher elevations. Hey, this is mid-August, three days following a crippling heat wave!  Anyway, I felt good afterwards, and ready to do the Portland Century this next Sunday! On Wednesday, I took a shorter ride with a few intentional hills up to Bonney Lake and then from Orting up to Graham. This ride started out sunny, but turned into a cold rain at the end of the ride, somewhat odd for even for the Northwest. Here’s a view of Mt. Rainier from the road from the 15AUG ride.

 

 

 

Rachel Lake????

August 14th, 2008

Rachel and Diane had just returned home, and we decided to do some backpacking. Naturally, Rachel Lake/Ramparts were our first choice. The hike started out okay, until we got about 2-1/2 miles in, when Rachel started throwing up. We were right at a regular stopping point for this hike, the waterfall. Soon, Diane and I were also feeling quite sick. We believe this to be from an illness that the grandkids just recovered from. So, we decided to head back. Meanwhile, I’m feeling sicker and sicker, not walking well, and barely make it back to the car. I didn’t feel like eating for two days afterwards. Simultaneously, I had my right knee act up on me again, which started first a few years ago while skiing, and happens when I put a lot of rotatory stress on the knee. I suspect it to be a small cartilage tear, but don’t feel like getting scoped yet, since it only acts up when I put unusual great stresses on the knee. But, it may limit my backpacking. It doesn’t hurt when I bicycle.

Courage Classic 2008

August 4th, 2008

This ride is sold as 3 passes-3 days, and done as a fund raiser for Mary Bridge hospital in Tacoma, Wa. The ride is heavily supported and sold as the only challenging ride that you will actually gain weight by doing. It was almost true, as I lost only 1 lb on the ride. The first day started in Snoqualmie Falls, went through North Bend, over Snoqualmie Pass, and down to CleElum. Ascending the pass was very rainy, and all 600+ riders were wet and dirty by the time we reached the summit. There is no photo of this summit since I was cold, wet, slightly miserable, tired, and anxious to get down the other side of the pass into sunny weather. The Rotary Club had convenient break stations every 12-15 miles, allowing to refuel, or, possibly to overfuel. Much of the ride was on the shoulder of I-90, a little uncomfortable with large trucks zooming by at 70+mph, but the shoulder was large, and there never was a place where I felt uncomfortable. Camping the first night was in Suncadia, which is right out of CleElum.

That’s my bike lying in the grass, with the forest green, grey tent in the center. Since I was one of the first in Suncadia, this photo shows very few tents. By the time everybody had arrived, there were well over 200 tents. The next day took one across Blewett Pass

at an elevation of a little over 4000 ft. This dropped you down into Leavenworth, for yet another night of camping (photos withheld, you know what my tent looks like). The town of Leavenworth is quite quaint, pretending to be some sort of Bavarian/Swiss/Swedish resort.

The final pass was the worst, which was Steven’s Pass. I got started a little bit earlier in the day, anticipating the pass to be quite hot later in the afternoon. Here is the road close to the summit.

Three days and three passes later, close to 5000 ft climb each day, and a total of 172 miles left me a little tired of hills, but not tired enough to not want to hop on the bicycle again for some great riding. The next coming up is the Portland Century…

 

02-04AUGUST2008 Courage Classic 173 miles bicycle ride

 

12,13JULY2008 STP 203 miles (Seattle to Portland) bicycle ride

July 15th, 2008

I was quite ready for the STP. The only problem I had was temperatures above 32°C (90°F). This led to the need for more frequent rest stops and 9 liters of fluid consumed on Saturday. Not good. But, I was minimally sore by the end of the ride, and felt good the entire distance. The ride was done with Jonathan Kamke and Lucas Anderson. Lucas was definitely the strongest rider of the group, and helped set a fairly fast clip that had us mostly passing others, rather than being passed. Hills are getting easier, and bike control better. It was nice being able to draft in a team, which added several miles/hour speed to our ride, and we were averaging about 18 mph (29 kph) on hills, 20 mph (32 kph) on flat, and 25 mph (39 kph) on downhill stretches. We started on the UW campus at 6 am Saturday AM looking rather fresh…

and arrived in Longview at 16:30, where we stayed overnight. The next day, we had only 50 more miles, which took us without stopping from 7:00 to 9:45. We didn’t look quite so fresh at that time…

The weather already was in the mid-eighties by the time we arrived at the finish line at Lloyd Center in Portland. We were able to meet my brother and his wife in Portland at the finish line to celebrate the occasion. Thanks Lew & Carol. Betsy also acted as the SAG vehicle, which was a super help.

 

Would I do it again? Absolutely!!! Next time, I will pray for a light Northwest drizzle, and try to do it in one day… and, make sure Lucas (and his dad????) accompany me! I would really like son Jonathan with us next year. Perhaps I could also get Ara out next time. One day. You can do it. It’s sort of fairly flat.

 

Training Rides 2008

July 5th, 2008

04,05JULY2008 Training Rides for STP 120 mile Auburn-Tenino Loop, 50 mile Ride to Carbonado

I should be ready for the STP. Friday, I went with Jonathan Kamke on a long loop that included the most difficult stretch of the STP up the hill in Puyallup. During that trip, my bicycle hit the 1000 mile mark…

and Jonathan hit his first Century ride.

The next day, I did a solo very hilly ride up to Carbonado. I started out slightly aching, but those pains soon went away, and I felt about as strong as the day before. I’ll do one more short ride before doing the 203 mile STP next weekend. The lead photo is a photo of the entry into Wilkeson…

 

More lessons learned. 1) Oblique rail road tracks are quite dangerous in wet weather. Both days were wet, overcast and drizzly, which is ideal riding weather, though the bike becomes messy, and railroad tracks threaten. Just outside of Roy, I flew off the bike after hitting an oblique track. I quickly learned my lesson. 2) Know how to repair your bike yourself. I’ve been reading the Park Manual of Bicycle Repair more frequently. Nobody can tune a bike up like yourself for the best settings of derailleurs and brakes. 3) Ride steady, fuel yourself often. Constant eating on the bike keeps you from bonking early.

 

Ride to Rainier via Elbe 105 miles, more flats & heat wave!

June 28th, 2008

The news noted a severe warning of a heat wave all weekend, with the temperature possibly as hot as 90F (32 C). So, I headed out with my newly tuned bicycle out to gates of Rainier. I immediately ended up with a flat. On changing the intertube, I made a minor mistake, and generated a pinch flat. Fortunately, I had brought two intertubes along. Off I went, on a very hilly venture. The weather was quite hot, and I consumed a grand total of 9 liters of fluid. On the way, you pass a number of lakes, one being a large reservoir.

In Elbe, there is a cute little Lutheran church which was built around the turn of the last century.

Finally, you reach the gates of Rainier National Park (above) where you could observe a veritable traffic jamb of people trying to get into the park. Fortunately, bicyclists aren’t quite so affected by traffic jambs. The way home was very hot, and yet another flat, for reasons I’m not sure of. My biggest problem this trip was a malfunctioning front derailleur. That evening, I took my bike into the shop and the bicycle repairman took me through tuning up a front derailleur, very useful skills for when one is on the road.

 

Flaming Geyser Ride

June 14th, 2008

12APRIL2008  Auburn to Flaming Geyser State Park via Black Diamond, then Green River-Interurban Trail loop, 64 miles, 4 hours.

It was an absolutely beautiful day, so it made sense to head out on my bike. Road directions from the bicycle route guides needed a little to be desired, and the route occasionally was not clear, but, I managed to find my way around all the same. The ride up to Black Diamond from Auburn was a long steady climb, and I was able to maintain an 18-20 mph speed. Past Black Diamond, the road dropped precipitously down to Flaming Geyser State Park. The park was just off the road, so I turned off to see the fantastic flaming geyser. Here it is…

If you don’t see it too clearly, don’t worry. That’s all it is! Can you believe that? Apparently, some dude was trying to drill a well, and after going down 360 feet, hit liquid that tended to burn when ignited. Cool. Actually, though the stream running through the park was beautiful, about the only real attraction of the park was the bridge into the park.

The rest of the way back to Auburn was flat farmland. The total loop was only 35 miles, and though very hilly, I decided I needed a little more time on the Fahrrad. So, 30 more miles up the Green River and back. The Green River is named because it is green, kind of like the Chicago River every St. Patrick’s day. But this green is not from food coloring. It is from green Schleim.

There were lots of apartment complexes and industry feeding Boeing on the other side, but also a golf course. It occurred to me why I hate golf. The lawn was covered with fat ugly slobs slowly meandering after their golf balls, calling it exercise. My eye.

By the way, you all may be wondering what my bike looks like. It is a Novara Trionfo, purchased last year from REI. (see lead photo) I had to lean it up against our car in order to get a photo of it. Real bikes do NOT have kickstands.

 

I tried a map bag on the handlebars on this trip, as you can see, but didn’t really like it. I usually wear a Camelback hydrator, where I can carry my keys, extra food, camera, and repair pump, extra tube, etc. The little gadget under the seat also carries repair tools. I find that the way to survive a long trip is constant hydration, and constant sugar. Today, I learned not to bring chocolate, which melted. Gummibären and GU (Schleim in a small aluminum package, that you can carry in your jersey pocket, and slurp down about once an hour, that really charges your energy quickly). Last year, my outings were occasionally passed by more experienced riders. This ride, I passed a lot of experienced riders, maintaining a 18-20 mph pace even at the end, and was passed by nobody. So, I think I’m getting in better shape.

 

Flying Wheels Century 2008

June 14th, 2008

14JUNE2008 Flying Wheels Century, 6hrs 50minutes. My first flats!

The day was scheduled to be sunny, so I was quite content to show up at Marymoor Park in Redmond, WA with overcast skies. One is able to keep pace without overheating when it is not too hot outside. Most of the way on this trip, I actually wore a light cycling jacket, because it was cold and windy. There must have been at least 3000 people doing the Flying Wheels, and the road was dense with people wherever one rode. That was helpful in offering a secondary assurance that I was on the correct path. I was also able to pace behind many riders, getting the so-called advantage of pacelining. This century was sold as very hilly (3840 feet total elevation gain – 1170 meters), three main hills, including Ingallwood Hill Rd, Stillwater Rd, and then Issaquah Falls City Rd. at the very end. The first two hills occurred close to the start of the ride, and the very first hill was a total killer. Somehow, the other two did not seem too bad. About 30 some miles into the ride, my back tire went flat. Fortunately, it was close to a rest station, and I carried a spare tube, so simply swapped out tubes, checking the tire quite carefully for shards of glass possibly imbedded in the rubber. Well, I didn’t check well enough, and so ended up with another flat about 2 miles later. Now, I had to patch one of the tubes, and was able to locate the shard of glass that I missed previously. At least now I know that I could handle tire emergencies on the road. Continuing on, the route went through farm land, followed several rivers and a large lake, and hit several villages en-route. All in all, a delightful Century. I was not too sore at the end of it, and so am feeling more comfortable about the prospects of the STP, coming up in one month.

One of the FWC rest stops

Typical weather at the end of the ride.

 

Moab 23MAY-01JUNE 2008 – Wilderness Medical Society Conference

June 3rd, 2008

We decided to drive to a conference in Moab, Utah, in order to see more than flying, and to save on costs. Since the meeting was in proximity to Memorial Day, we decided to leave a few days early in order to possibly catch some additional sites. We headed out after work on Friday afternoon, and got as far as Salem, Oregon. The intention was to see Yosemite if the weather was good. It wasn’t. So, once we reached Sacramento, we decided to head over to Moab by the slow route. I have wanted to drive I-80 out of Sacramento, in order to see the sites of the Donner party tragedy, and also to get a feel of the difficulties with the construction of the California/Nevada portion of the transcontinental railroad. Donner Pass happened to be very blustery, and Betsy found that she was not enjoying herself well, so, we decided to stop in Fernley, Nevada, just outside of Reno.  The next day, we took route 50 all the way to Delta, Utah. Route 50 is also known as the loneliest road in America, and, after experiencing it, Betsy and I agree. We stopped at the Great Basin National Park on the way, but weather did not permit much activity. We could have gone into a cave on a guided tour while in the park, but that was not our fancy. Here is what the park looked like, just outside the main Ranger station….

We drove on, and arrived in Richfield, Utah by dusk. The next day, we hit Arches National Park, Believe it or not, there were a lot of arches in the park…

The next day, we went to Canyonlands National Park, which had approximately the same motif, though it was a larger park, with fewer arches. Here is one arch that I was able to climb up on…

Conference started a day later, going for a full 3-1/2 days, starting at 0800 and ending at 2130. There were many practical sessions, going out into the desert and practicing various techniques learned in the classroom earlier in the day. One afternoon, for example, we hiked up Negro Bill Canyon, while practicing certain scenarios. The next afternoon, we rafted down the Colorado River, practicing various scenarios that would happen on a river, such as the detection and treatment of hypothermia. Oddly, some dude (not in our group) flipped his kayak, and demanded rescue by our raft guides. He came to shore confused and hypothermic, and we were able to practice our skills. Since the rafting trip was quite wet, I left my camera at home. I passed the final exam and received my Advanced Wilderness Life Support certificate, so that I can now rescue people in the woods. Driving home went the short route, through Salt Lake City, Boise, staying the night in Ontario, Oregon, and arriving home about 2 pm the next day. All in all, it was a profitable conference, and I’m ready to do more wilderness conferences. Maybe, a rafting or marine conference next time? We drove the Prius for this trip and found it to be an excellent traveling care, besides getting 50 miles/gallon. It will definitely be the preferred travel car for the future.

 

Home to Rainier National Park, Carbon River Road, 75 miles.

May 23rd, 2008

Went via Orting Valley, Wilkinson, Carbonado, then returned up Pioneer to Canyon Rd. Beautiful conditions, and was able to see Mt. Rainier well. No camera, unfortunately to document the event. Nice first outdoor ride of the year. Moderate hilly outside of the Orting Valley, and road quality was poor but constantly uphill, once you get to South Prairie. I came within about a mile of the park entrance, turning back only because there was quite a bit of snow around me, and it was getting to be rather chilly, not being totally dressed for deep-freeze conditions. Coming back, I encountered Doug & Margie with the Chases, taking a stroll along the Orting Valley. I guess they weren’t used to high velocity items propelling into them on the trail. I also stopped for a bite to eat in Orting. This is a nice trail for uphill training.

My First Century, 100 miles (161 km), 6.5 hours.

May 17th, 2008

 

Another beautiful day, so I decided to do a variation on the 12APRIL trip. Riding my bicycle from home, I went through Sumner to Auburn, the first 14 miles. I then went directly to Flaming Geyser State Park, though not stopping at the park. Immediately past the park, I hit the first of many hills that were to define this trip. Those hills were mostly avoided, or encountered on the downhill, in the last trip, going the other way. I then did a slight out of the way loop, going by Hanging Gardens State Park. The Green River runs through this park, which is how it appeared from the road.

After I arrived at the town of Black Diamond, I turned north to Kent, then riding to Kanaskat-Palmer State Park. Riding into the park, I watched some rafters go down the Green River.

The trip then headed straight south, going through Enumclaw and Buckley. There was the Mountain (Rainier) and cows.

Finally, I headed down to the Orting Valley, doing a slight duplicate of myself to achieve exactly 100 miles on the ride. Here is the trail, going by the Puyallup River.

At the end, I was doing 18-20 mph (29-32 kph), but was a little ragged. The hills were moderately steep, and the temperature rose as high as 32 Celsius, making it too hot for me. You could tell that by the end of the trip. I decided not to do the last hill to get me up to South Hill, but called Betsy, and she came to get me.  Meanwhile, some may wonder what a person eats on a long trip like this. You certainly don’t need a balanced diet, and don’t need fats. I mostly GU it, which comes in small packages that you can rip open with your teeth and easily slurp down while riding. It is almost pure carbohydrate. Most bicycle jerseys have three little pockets in back where you can keep your stash of GU. I also consume large quantities of gummi-bears, and wear a hydration kit on my back.

I hope to do a few more centuries (100 mile rides) this year, and am already signed up for two centuries and a double-century. So, I’ll lug my camera along, and expect more adventures in the chronicles of the Feuchtster.

 

Summit Attempt Mt. Hood 10MAY2008

May 11th, 2008

This attempt was with Ronn Goodnough and Doug King on the South route (trade route) of Mt. Hood. We achieved approximately the 9500 ft. level, at the base of crater rock, before weather conditions deteriorated to the point that it would not be either comfortable or provide a good view on top, and with some climbing members surprised that the ascent of a peak was as strenuous as it was, realized that they needed slightly more physical conditioning. That’s ok. I also got into condition at the beginning of a climbing season by just doing it, realizing that the first climb would be tough, and the rest far more endurable. So, we headed up the mountain at 00:20, with first stop at Silcox Warming Hut.

This first photograph is with me and Dr. King. We were already quite warm. Since it was pitch black, we all needed headlamps to climb. We continued our ascent, until the summit disappeared, and all that we saw was this…

 

Deutschland/Österreich Trip- 16-26APRIL2008

April 27th, 2008

Writing this while still in the grip of jet-lag may be a problem. This was perhaps one of our more enjoyable trips to Europe. Every place we visited was too short, and too quick, otherwise we were more than overwhelmed. The weather was mostly rainy and cold, so the photographs tended to not be quite so nice.

Departure was with Scandanavian Airlines on Wednesday evening. As usual, we popped a sleeping pill soon after boarding the plane, and off we went. The next day, we were greeted by an enthusiastic, and delightful Dr. Herbert, and then stayed two nights at his place, catching up on matters, discussing politics, etc.

Arras

Herbert and Betsy at a local restaurant

 

Me with a new pipe that Herbert got me

 

Herbert is always a delight to visit, and it was sad having to say goodby. The next phase of the trip was Berlin, where we met Diane. Our first stop was the Kaiser Wilhelm GedächtnisKirche, close to the hotel we were staying in. Concurrently, the Dormund-München Fußballspiel was occurring in Berlin, with fans everywhere on the streets, on the train and transportation, and in all public buildings drinking cases of bier and singing their team cheer songs. It was well behaved but very entertaining. The Kaiser Wilhelm Church was not repaired after the war, so that we won’t forget what grief a war will cause. We won’t forget.

The next day, we visited many notable buildings, including the Reichstag

the Brandenburger Tor

and even the site for Hitler’s bunker, which now happens to be an obscure parking lot…

Poor Adolf, now buried beneath a parking lot and across from a Jewish memorial. We also went to the Pergamon Museum to see the Isar Tor, which is one of the smallest gates leading into the city of ancient Babylon, of fame noted by the book of Daniel

Of course, there was our first attempt at Döner, and we had what was called Dürüm Döner, which is Döner that looks like a burrito.

Rachel, we thought about you as we ate our Döner! On Monday, Betsy and I took a hop down to Lutherstadt Wittemberg to see the Luther sites. These included the Leucoria, which was the seminary where Luther taught

Luther’s house next door to the university

The church and door where Luther nailed the 95 theses….(this was not the original door, which was made of wood, and destoyed during the first 30 years war of the world against Germany, as well as Luther’s grave…

 

We also went into St. Marys Church (Marienkirche) where Luther did much of his preaching. Here is the ascent to the pulpit

In this church was a billboard that stated Luther’s sentiments quite accurately, “ Der wahre Schatz der Kirche ist das allerheigiste Evangelium von der Herrlichkeit und Gnade Gottes” (The true treasure of the church is the most holy message of the gospel regarding the majesty and grace of God). Indeed, something that Luther was missing in the Catholic church, and is unfortunately now missing even in Luther’s church as well as the Catholic church. Meanwhile, back in Berlin, we headed to Alexander Platz, which is sitting in east Berlin, and had a sense of some sentiment against the US…

Oddly, they need to express that sentiment to the two people that got them more trouble than Amerika, their old friends Karl and Freddy…

Wahnsinn. Diane was a delight to see, as she was most enthusiastic about her studies, and already becoming moderately fluent in the language. It was sad to say goodby. After more bier and Döner, we headed to München. Here is Betsy in the main town square, in front of the City Hall (Rathaus). We mostly walked the town, went to the Englischer Garten, and had bier and Würst at the Hofbrauhaus

From there, it was to Wien (Vienna). There we met a friend of ours Doktor Annita Budzanowski, and stayed at their parents house, Edward and Aldona…

This was most precious to us. They were the most kind, loving, hospitable family. We truly hope we can be able to return kindness to them with a visit to the USA, or perhaps, getting Annita into a US surgical residency close by. The first night in Wien entailed a night at the opera, at the most famous Wiener Staatsoper, where we saw a production of Richard Strauss’ Solome.

What a special treat. I couldn’t say how extremely delighted Betsy and I were to be at one of the two most famous opera houses in the world, close up, actually enjoying an opera. Besides that, we walked the downtown several times, went to the Wiener Kunsthistorisches Museum, where many Egyptian,  Greek and Roman artifacts were on display, as well as the works of many Dutch and late Italian masters. There was a huge collection of Rubens, Rembrandt, Carravagio, and many other well known artists. What a treat! The last evening, the Budzanowskis took us to Schönbrunn, modeled after Versaille and the summer residence of the emperors, and then up to the top of Kahlenberg, which overlooks the city of Wien

Schönbrunn was unfortunately closed so we couldn’t go in. Kahlenberg was the site of where the Polish King Jan Sobieski led the attack on the Turks that had sieged the city in 1683. It is no wonder that Austria has a deep respect for the Poles. All in all, our visit to Wien was most unforgettable, made very special by the graciousness of our hosts, the Budzanowskis. Departure back to Seattle was difficult, but, its time to get back to work.

 

Cross-Country Ski Trip on Huckleberry Creek Trail—

March 1st, 2008

Did this with Jonny, starting at 0900 and getting out at 1300, about 10-12 miles each way for a total of 20-24 miles. The road to the trailhead was closed, so we had to have an additional 2 miles additional skiing on snowed over road in order to reach the normal starting point. The weather was cool and snowing most the time, leaving us wet powder, which made it remarkably easy to negotiate on skis. We had to break trail the entire distance, and never saw another single person, until we met somebody at the trailhead on our return, going up alone with her two dogs. I tried to use the Magellan GPS to figure out our ending location and distance, but the unit was inoperable, only to learn after skiing out, that I put in one of the batteries wrong. Also, I forgot my camera, thus no photographs. Though we were in view of Mt. Rainier, and probably just inside the park, weather conditions did not allow for distant viewing. At the trailhead, we were even barraged by a rather fierce hailstorm.

I had done this trail partially last year with Dr. Cull, but only making about a third the distance. I would like to return to the trail in order to attempt a complete ascent to Grand Park, hopefully on a clear day to see Mt. Rainier,  or possibly to even camp out in Grand Park. Interestingly, this trail took us quite close to Lake Eleanor, located within the Park. Jonny and I hiked into Lake Eleanor from Sunrise many years ago when Jonny was quite young, and in minimalist style, i.e., without a tent. All that we could remember from the trip is how we were eaten up by mosquitos, and achieving almost no sleep that night. On the way out today, in the snow, Jonny and I encountered several mosquitos! What a wonderful memory.

I defied all sensibility on this trip. I had no snow shovel or rescue equipment. I forgot a map and compass. I depended on a non-functional gps unit. In fact, I carried absolutely no safety equipment. We forgot the cell phone, and had no signaling devices. This was part of the reason I decided to call it quits a touch early. Stupidity needs not be multiplied. Firsts on this trip included a backpack thermos filled with hot chocolate. Great idea!  Second, I actually sustained blisters on both metatarsal heads, which is unusual for me when skiing.  At home, I applied Blisto-Ban, which works awesomely. Immediately after application, I had virtually no blister discomfort even while walking around. They are worth their expense. Unfortunately, REI does not carry Blisto-Ban.

 

Big Sky, Montana for Wilderness Medicine Conference 07-14FEB2008

February 14th, 2008

We decided, much to Betsy’s chagrin, to drive to this conference. At first, it seemed slightly unlikely that we would make it, since the West was having more snow than we initially imagined. We had to travel across several passes, including Snoqualmie Pass in the Cascades and Lookout Pass in Idaho, and both were intermittently closed due to excessive snowfall. Fortunately, we made it across both passes in a narrow window when they were open. Before the start of our adventure, we were blessed by a visit from several of our beloved relatives, Jim & Joann Dietrich from Silverton, Oregon, and Wes & Esther Moser, from Lester, Iowa. They also were heading for the mountains, going to Leavenworth, Washington for a brief break from herding sheep & electrons. Joann and Esther are cousins of mine, on the Feucht side of the family. I had stacks of old Feucht photos that mom left when she died, and nobody in our family knew who they were. Well, Joann and Esther immediately recognized just about everybody. There were even childhood photos of Joann and Esther, which I felt their children would prize more than I would. So, I let them take the whole shebang. (Last year, I scanned all the Sam Feucht family photos and digitized them, so that everybody in the family has access to our photos on request. It’s a nice way to not only preserve photos, but to distribute photos without everybody fighting over who gets what.) Anyway, after lunch, they took off, and then we took off. Barely making it across Snoqualmie Pass, we arrived in Spokane, Washington for the night. The next day, Lookout Pass was formidable but open, and Montana was quite easy driving.

Big Sky was a beautiful resort, and the conference was quite delightful, in fact, probably one of the finest medical conferences that I have ever attended. You might see more details in the corresponding blog site. I downhill skiied two of the three free days available, since the conference lectures would start in the early morning, end around 10 AM, and then re-convene at 1630 in the afternoon. There would also be an evening lecture, like a preview of a new upcoming documentary film on the events on Mt. Everest detailed in Jon Krakauer’s book “Into Thin Air”, or Conrad Anker speaking with slides, on his climb of the Tibet side of Everest, leading to his discovery of the body of Mallory, and how he showed that Mallory probably did NOT summit Everest.

Skiing was nice the first day on packed snow, but much harder the second day, since there was fresh snowfall, and I was totally not used to skiing in 6 cm of powder. It takes too much work to turn, and I was sore after only about 3 runs down the mountain.

 

Getting ready to do some blue runs. I’m not quite good enough for most black runs, but was really tempted.

 

Self-photograph. I wear the ugliest orange helmet so that my friends can easily find me when I am up skiing. Also, I prefer a helmet, in order to protect my second favorite organ. This boy will not get photo-keratitis, or snow blindness, and I am wearing spf 50 suntan lotion.

 

Second day up skiing. Lots of powder, visibility down.

 

As a little tidbit that we learned at this conference, the rule of threes… most ski injuries happen after the third day of skiing, at three in the afternoon, after a third beer. When studied more carefully, the number one factor that falls out in ski injuries is visibility. So, I now retreat to green slopes or to the lodge when visibility deteriorates to the point that I can’t see the texture of the snow I’m skiing on.

 

Betsy and I brought our cross-country skis, but decided not to cross-country at the last moment. This area is ideal for cross-country, and would love to cross-country into Yellowstone some day.

 

Driving home was another stress on poor Betsy. We came on I-90, and decided to return on I-84. Getting to I-84 was a problem, since the road to Idaho Falls was almost entirely mountainous, and also in extreme winter conditions. We got down to West Yellowstone, and found that a large semi-truck overturned across the road, and so nobody was getting through and the road was closed. Quickly looking at the map, I saw an alternate route by going back about eight miles. After going about twenty-some miles through the most desolate roads, not seeing another soul on the roads, Betsy began to freak. I began to be thankful that I had just learned winter survival techniques and was ready to practice these new-found skills. Finally, after about 30-some miles of the most desolate winter conditions, we saw a caravan of semi-trucks roar by us in the opposite direction, so knew we were on a road that led to somewhere. After reaching Idaho Falls, and the weather looking a bit better, we got onto I-84, but we ran into the most frightful snow-storm, with only light snow falling, but high winds, and snow freezing on our windshields, making visibility almost impossible. We survived by following a truck that seemed familiar with the road, until about 30 miles later, we broke through into a wonderful sunset. That evening, we learned that that section of I-84 was just closed because of the problem we experienced. I’m just glad we got through in time, having a truck to follow.  We stopped that evening in Boise, Idaho, then drove the next day on I-84 to Portland, across the Blue Mountains, and down the Columbia River Gorge, stopped at Roses in Portland to have a Reuben, and headed home, arriving home at 1530.  We thank the Lord for safe travel. Next time, I’ll bring some Valium for Betsy.

 

Stay tuned for our next adventure to Deutschland und Österreich in April.

 

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